By David M Peters
The use of a frame can turn an otherwise plain picture into a pleasing one. Usually a foreground element is used to create the frame. Examples are an overhanging tree branch, a window frame, a door, arches, a fence, rows of trees, etc.
The goal in using a frame in your photo is to isolate the main subject and construct an appealing composition within your photo. Many times it is used to create a feeling of depth. You may decide to keep the detail of the frame (as in a wall, fence or branch), or let the frame go completely dark (as in a window frame).
Keep in mind objects in the foreground (and even in the middle or background) that could be used as a frame when composing a shot. Move around in your environment to find the best angle or viewpoint when framing a subject. You might need to kneel down, back up or zoom in to capture the best composition for your chosen frame and subject.
You can also use image editing software to create a frame without the camera. By combining two or more pictures into one image, you can create spectacular effects. The possibilities are up to you!
Be cautious though when doing this. While there is nothing wrong with incorporating certain aspects of different pictures into one, be careful about utilizing artificial frames on familiar landscapes and scenes.
Nothing could look odder than the Eifel Tower being framed by the Great Wall of China. Unless to are trying to create a dissonance to the viewer, a picture of that extreme will only look bizarre.
Next time you go to take that photograph, check out what you might be able to use as a natural frame. Experiment with this, and if you have any doubts, take one photo with a frame and one without. I bet you'll find you eye drawn to the one making use of a natural frame.
Would like to find out more about editing digital photography? Don't trust anybody's advice until you read this free report
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Monday, July 28, 2008
Landscape Photography - Five Tips For Photographing the Great Landmarks
By Andrew Goodall
Wildlife photography is such a broad topic, it can mean many things to many people. As a wildlife photographer, you need to be able to adapt your style to suit the subject and the surroundings.
Often your subject will be found in a setting that appears unnatural or unattractive in a photograph. For example, you may be taking photos in a zoo, but you don't want the enclosure to appear in your picture. In these situations, the best approach is to zoom right in on the subject. This eliminates as much of the background as possible, and thanks to a narrow depth of field you can ensure that what little background can be seen is out of focus.
On the other hand, what if your wildlife subject is found in a beautiful landscape? Now you have an opportunity to take a completely different type of wildlife photograph; one in which the story is not just the subject, but the relationship of the subject to its surroundings.
Who hasn't admired images of majestic elephants or giraffes trekking across an African plain with snow-capped mountains in the distance? In Australia we marvel at shots of kangaroos on a tropical beach, dingos on Fraser island, emus crossing an outback plain.
Photographs like these may have wildlife as the central theme, but as a photographer it is wise to think of them as landscape photographs. By approaching the lighting and composition as you would a landscape, you can use your skills to bring both the subject and its environment into focus.
In terms of lighting, the usual landscape rules apply. Early morning and late afternoon is usually the best time to take your photos, when the light is soft and the contrast is low. The warm colour of the light does not just enhance the landscape; it also adds character to the wildlife, and can eliminate unwanted shadows from the face of the subject. With just the right angle, you may catch that sparkle in the eye that really brings your photo alive.
Just like landscape photography, there are exceptions to this rule. If your subject is found in the rainforest, or other places where there is patchy light and shade, it can be preferable to take your photos on cloudy days. This approach reduces the contrast and allows you to capture a nice, even light throughout.
So in terms of lighting, this type of wildlife photography actually calls on all of your usual landscape skills.
What about composition? Again, the methods of composition you apply to landscapes are also a good guide, but the animal subject adds a whole new dimension to the process. The way you position your animal has a big impact on the success of the image.
Remember your rule of thirds? If you don't know about it, do a quick google search, it is easy to find. If you can position your animal subject according to the rule of thirds, it will add balance to the composition. In fact, I can go even further...if you can position the eyes of the subject near the intersecting lines (according to the rule of thirds), you can add even further impact. Viewers of the photo are drawn to these points in a composition, so this position will create instant eye contact between the subject and the viewer. And with eye contact comes a personal connection that will help viewers really feel something from your picture.
Of course the rule of thirds is not the only approach. In fact, sometimes you can take a better picture by deliberately ignoring the rule and creating something a little more 'off balance'. But the rule is always a good place to start if you are struggling to find a composition that really works.
Another useful guide is to have your subject facing into the picture, not out of it. The eyes have a very powerful effect in a photo; we tend to look the way they are pointing.
That means if your animal is towards the left of the frame, it should be looking to the right, towards the centre of the picture. If you can set the shot up so that the animal is facing toward something you want to feature in the distance (remember, this is a wildlife photo, but it is also a landscape photo) you can achieve something quite special. Not only will the position of the background object become more prominent, you can actually suggest a relationship between the subject and the surroundings. Your photo will become like a story of the animal and the world it lives in.
All rules are made to be broken, so as a famous pirate once said, "They're more like guidelines, really." Nature is so diverse, there is never a single easy way to approach a subject. However, if you can occasionally capture an image that connects the viewer, the animal and the landscape, you will truly have a photograph to remember. In the meantime, you are going to have plenty of fun trying!
Check out Andrew Goodall's popular wildlife and landscape photography at http://www.naturesimage.com.au - and learn from his experience with the top selling ebook "Photography in Plain English." Don't forget to sign up to the online newsletter for tips and updates...it's free!
Wildlife photography is such a broad topic, it can mean many things to many people. As a wildlife photographer, you need to be able to adapt your style to suit the subject and the surroundings.
Often your subject will be found in a setting that appears unnatural or unattractive in a photograph. For example, you may be taking photos in a zoo, but you don't want the enclosure to appear in your picture. In these situations, the best approach is to zoom right in on the subject. This eliminates as much of the background as possible, and thanks to a narrow depth of field you can ensure that what little background can be seen is out of focus.
On the other hand, what if your wildlife subject is found in a beautiful landscape? Now you have an opportunity to take a completely different type of wildlife photograph; one in which the story is not just the subject, but the relationship of the subject to its surroundings.
Who hasn't admired images of majestic elephants or giraffes trekking across an African plain with snow-capped mountains in the distance? In Australia we marvel at shots of kangaroos on a tropical beach, dingos on Fraser island, emus crossing an outback plain.
Photographs like these may have wildlife as the central theme, but as a photographer it is wise to think of them as landscape photographs. By approaching the lighting and composition as you would a landscape, you can use your skills to bring both the subject and its environment into focus.
In terms of lighting, the usual landscape rules apply. Early morning and late afternoon is usually the best time to take your photos, when the light is soft and the contrast is low. The warm colour of the light does not just enhance the landscape; it also adds character to the wildlife, and can eliminate unwanted shadows from the face of the subject. With just the right angle, you may catch that sparkle in the eye that really brings your photo alive.
Just like landscape photography, there are exceptions to this rule. If your subject is found in the rainforest, or other places where there is patchy light and shade, it can be preferable to take your photos on cloudy days. This approach reduces the contrast and allows you to capture a nice, even light throughout.
So in terms of lighting, this type of wildlife photography actually calls on all of your usual landscape skills.
What about composition? Again, the methods of composition you apply to landscapes are also a good guide, but the animal subject adds a whole new dimension to the process. The way you position your animal has a big impact on the success of the image.
Remember your rule of thirds? If you don't know about it, do a quick google search, it is easy to find. If you can position your animal subject according to the rule of thirds, it will add balance to the composition. In fact, I can go even further...if you can position the eyes of the subject near the intersecting lines (according to the rule of thirds), you can add even further impact. Viewers of the photo are drawn to these points in a composition, so this position will create instant eye contact between the subject and the viewer. And with eye contact comes a personal connection that will help viewers really feel something from your picture.
Of course the rule of thirds is not the only approach. In fact, sometimes you can take a better picture by deliberately ignoring the rule and creating something a little more 'off balance'. But the rule is always a good place to start if you are struggling to find a composition that really works.
Another useful guide is to have your subject facing into the picture, not out of it. The eyes have a very powerful effect in a photo; we tend to look the way they are pointing.
That means if your animal is towards the left of the frame, it should be looking to the right, towards the centre of the picture. If you can set the shot up so that the animal is facing toward something you want to feature in the distance (remember, this is a wildlife photo, but it is also a landscape photo) you can achieve something quite special. Not only will the position of the background object become more prominent, you can actually suggest a relationship between the subject and the surroundings. Your photo will become like a story of the animal and the world it lives in.
All rules are made to be broken, so as a famous pirate once said, "They're more like guidelines, really." Nature is so diverse, there is never a single easy way to approach a subject. However, if you can occasionally capture an image that connects the viewer, the animal and the landscape, you will truly have a photograph to remember. In the meantime, you are going to have plenty of fun trying!
Check out Andrew Goodall's popular wildlife and landscape photography at http://www.naturesimage.com.au - and learn from his experience with the top selling ebook "Photography in Plain English." Don't forget to sign up to the online newsletter for tips and updates...it's free!
Saturday, July 26, 2008
How to Photograph the Moon
By Chris Thornton
Photographing the moon can be tricky. Last year I had a go at it and it was a complete disaster with the moon looking like a big bright blurry mass in the sky. After a bit of trial and error I discovered how to take nice shots of the moon. Please see the two examples to the right.
The right lens
The first thing you need is a powerful zoom lens. The moon may look big in the night sky but when your camera takes a photo of it, the moon will only fill a tiny portion of the photo. On a 50mm lens the moon with be nothing more than a dot in your picture. The lens I used in the photos opposite were taken on a Canon 100-400mm lens which was a lot better but to be honest an even longer zoom would have been better.
Keep it steady
The next thing you 100% need is a tripod. Keeping the camera still is essential for getting a sharp image, and if your using a long zoom lens camera shake will be an issue as it's the longer the zoom the more camera shake affects the image. The tripod will hold the lens still and allow you to take a sharp image. Also you will need to use either the cameras timer function or a shutter release cable to trigger the camera shutter... otherwise you can jolt the camera while taking the photo and get blurred results.
Aperture
What f-number/aperture should you use? The first thing that comes to mind is a low f-number i.e. f4.0 or lower to take in more light. This is where I went wrong - the moon is actually very bright in the sky and using a low f-number can completely blow out the moon and make it look more like the sun. The ideal f-number would be somewhere between f11 and f16.
Shutter speed
For Shutter speed again you would assume a slow speed but again this is the opposite. Since the moon is bright you don't need as much time to capture the light it gives off. Also the moon actually moves quite fast along the night sky - if you have a 400mm lens or longer you can actually see the moon moving slowly across the viewfinder. If we used a slow shutter speed then the actual movement of the moon could cause us to lose detail. This is why I would recommend a speed of around 1/125 - 1/250.
ISO speed I would have around 200-400 and then just experiment with different combinations of ISO, aperture and shutter speed with the guidelines above until you get a nice exposure of the moon. You may need to also experiment if the moon is showing different amounts depending on the time of the month.
Cropping
Once you have your perfect shot load it onto your computer. Even on a 400mm lens the moon can still take up a relatively small area of your photo. If you got your settings spot on and managed to get a very sharp photo of the moon then you can crop your image and even zoom in a little bit so the moon itself fits better in the finished framing of your photo.
Conclusion
Use a long zoom lens.
Always use a tripod and shutter release or timer cable.
Don't use a low f-number.
Don't use a slow shutter speed.
Chris Thornton http://www.colourjam.com
Photographing the moon can be tricky. Last year I had a go at it and it was a complete disaster with the moon looking like a big bright blurry mass in the sky. After a bit of trial and error I discovered how to take nice shots of the moon. Please see the two examples to the right.
The right lens
The first thing you need is a powerful zoom lens. The moon may look big in the night sky but when your camera takes a photo of it, the moon will only fill a tiny portion of the photo. On a 50mm lens the moon with be nothing more than a dot in your picture. The lens I used in the photos opposite were taken on a Canon 100-400mm lens which was a lot better but to be honest an even longer zoom would have been better.
Keep it steady
The next thing you 100% need is a tripod. Keeping the camera still is essential for getting a sharp image, and if your using a long zoom lens camera shake will be an issue as it's the longer the zoom the more camera shake affects the image. The tripod will hold the lens still and allow you to take a sharp image. Also you will need to use either the cameras timer function or a shutter release cable to trigger the camera shutter... otherwise you can jolt the camera while taking the photo and get blurred results.
Aperture
What f-number/aperture should you use? The first thing that comes to mind is a low f-number i.e. f4.0 or lower to take in more light. This is where I went wrong - the moon is actually very bright in the sky and using a low f-number can completely blow out the moon and make it look more like the sun. The ideal f-number would be somewhere between f11 and f16.
Shutter speed
For Shutter speed again you would assume a slow speed but again this is the opposite. Since the moon is bright you don't need as much time to capture the light it gives off. Also the moon actually moves quite fast along the night sky - if you have a 400mm lens or longer you can actually see the moon moving slowly across the viewfinder. If we used a slow shutter speed then the actual movement of the moon could cause us to lose detail. This is why I would recommend a speed of around 1/125 - 1/250.
ISO speed I would have around 200-400 and then just experiment with different combinations of ISO, aperture and shutter speed with the guidelines above until you get a nice exposure of the moon. You may need to also experiment if the moon is showing different amounts depending on the time of the month.
Cropping
Once you have your perfect shot load it onto your computer. Even on a 400mm lens the moon can still take up a relatively small area of your photo. If you got your settings spot on and managed to get a very sharp photo of the moon then you can crop your image and even zoom in a little bit so the moon itself fits better in the finished framing of your photo.
Conclusion
Use a long zoom lens.
Always use a tripod and shutter release or timer cable.
Don't use a low f-number.
Don't use a slow shutter speed.
Chris Thornton http://www.colourjam.com
Friday, July 25, 2008
The Number One Mistake That Newcomers to Digital Photography Make
By Stan Pontiere
Although bad composition and poor use of lighting are major problems with today's digital photographers, it is not the worst mistake that newcomers to digital photography make.
When someone buys there first digital camera, they immediately go out and start taking a ton of photos and for the most part, they turn out to be technically good photographs. However, in many circumstances, they could have been much better.
The single biggest mistake is that they haven't taken the time to read the owner's manual. Today,s digital camera are technical marvels. But, for the most part, the new owners of these cameras have not taken the time to find out all of the options that are available to them. They set the camera on full automatic and start firing away.
Most of the cameras today have a tremendous range of options that will help produce even better photographs. These little technical marvels may have upwards of 15 or more scene modes for specific types of situations, macro-mode, back-lit mode, fill-in flash, manual modes, aperture and shutter speed controls, sports mode, scenic mode and the list goes on forever. All of these different controls are available to improve your pictures but, if you are not aware of them, you are missing out on the true capabilities of your new digital camera.
Your first step, before you take picture number one should be to read and study the manual that came with the camera-cover to cover. Then when you go out on your first photo shoot, you will know how to best set-up the camera so that you are getting full use of it's technical capabilities and produce far better photographs.
Then once you know what the camera is capable of doing, you should then start learning about lighting and composition. As a long time professional photographer, friends are constantly coming to me wanting to show off their latest digital masterpiece. Of course, the first thing I notice is the poor use of lighting and absolutely miserable composition but, now I am starting to notice that they are also not making full use of the different scene modes. Composition and lighting are somewhat difficult to learn but, there is no excuse for not using all of the technical capabilities of your new digital camera. All it takes is a couple of hours of study and then, at least, you are getting full use of the camera's abilities.
Later on, we can tackle composition and lighting but start off on the right foot by reading the manual. It will give you a head-start on taking better pictures. I love these modern technical marvels. When I started out as a professional photographer more than forty years ago, I was always dragging around about one hundred pounds of equipment and it might take hours of setting up to take one photo. Today, for the most part, all that you need do is point and shoot and then you can look at the screen and know immediately if the picture is good or bad. Back in the day, there was so many variables in aperture, shutters speed, light metering, processing and printing that it might be hours or even days before you actually knew if you had created the photograph you had expected.
Compared to the good old days, today's photographers have it really easy but, often fail to produce optimal pictures simply because they had not read the manual that came with their camera. Shame on you if you don't bother to read the manual. The poor quality of your pictures can only be blamed on you.
Stan Pontiere has been an avid photographer since childhood. Having worked for the likes of the Associated Press and The New York Times and an instructor of photography at a college back east, I have enjoyed the transition from film to digital photography.
For more information on digital photography, please visit: http://digitalphoto.net46.net
Although bad composition and poor use of lighting are major problems with today's digital photographers, it is not the worst mistake that newcomers to digital photography make.
When someone buys there first digital camera, they immediately go out and start taking a ton of photos and for the most part, they turn out to be technically good photographs. However, in many circumstances, they could have been much better.
The single biggest mistake is that they haven't taken the time to read the owner's manual. Today,s digital camera are technical marvels. But, for the most part, the new owners of these cameras have not taken the time to find out all of the options that are available to them. They set the camera on full automatic and start firing away.
Most of the cameras today have a tremendous range of options that will help produce even better photographs. These little technical marvels may have upwards of 15 or more scene modes for specific types of situations, macro-mode, back-lit mode, fill-in flash, manual modes, aperture and shutter speed controls, sports mode, scenic mode and the list goes on forever. All of these different controls are available to improve your pictures but, if you are not aware of them, you are missing out on the true capabilities of your new digital camera.
Your first step, before you take picture number one should be to read and study the manual that came with the camera-cover to cover. Then when you go out on your first photo shoot, you will know how to best set-up the camera so that you are getting full use of it's technical capabilities and produce far better photographs.
Then once you know what the camera is capable of doing, you should then start learning about lighting and composition. As a long time professional photographer, friends are constantly coming to me wanting to show off their latest digital masterpiece. Of course, the first thing I notice is the poor use of lighting and absolutely miserable composition but, now I am starting to notice that they are also not making full use of the different scene modes. Composition and lighting are somewhat difficult to learn but, there is no excuse for not using all of the technical capabilities of your new digital camera. All it takes is a couple of hours of study and then, at least, you are getting full use of the camera's abilities.
Later on, we can tackle composition and lighting but start off on the right foot by reading the manual. It will give you a head-start on taking better pictures. I love these modern technical marvels. When I started out as a professional photographer more than forty years ago, I was always dragging around about one hundred pounds of equipment and it might take hours of setting up to take one photo. Today, for the most part, all that you need do is point and shoot and then you can look at the screen and know immediately if the picture is good or bad. Back in the day, there was so many variables in aperture, shutters speed, light metering, processing and printing that it might be hours or even days before you actually knew if you had created the photograph you had expected.
Compared to the good old days, today's photographers have it really easy but, often fail to produce optimal pictures simply because they had not read the manual that came with their camera. Shame on you if you don't bother to read the manual. The poor quality of your pictures can only be blamed on you.
Stan Pontiere has been an avid photographer since childhood. Having worked for the likes of the Associated Press and The New York Times and an instructor of photography at a college back east, I have enjoyed the transition from film to digital photography.
For more information on digital photography, please visit: http://digitalphoto.net46.net
Saturday, July 19, 2008
What Should You Look for in a New Camera?
By Christopher Haslego
These parameters are discussed at 2 levels:
-Based on degree of functional use of available features
-Based on the type of photography you want to attempt
-->Based on degree of functional use of available features
A person who is happy with his or her camera model usually responds with the following words of praise.
‘Incredible ease of use’
‘User-friendly controls’
‘Intelligently and thoughtfully designed’
‘Excellent value for money’
‘Light and compact’
These are the kind of terms that you will come across from camera owners who are satisfied with their camera models. These superlatives sum up what people usually look for or could look for at an overall level in their camera. It is a broad evaluation based on design elements, size and affordability.
Before you make a decision to purchase you should explore a little further and study the type of features available to you. Unless you make the attempt to understand the features at your disposal, there is the risk of being stuck with a model that does not suit your particular requirements. Let’s take a look at what features you should look for, as well as the features that you should be wary of when you choose a camera system.
-->Features to Look For
1. The lens is by far the most important device in your camera. The quality of the lens ensures the sharpness of your image. The camera lens is described by length (given in mm), known as the focal length of the lens. 50mm is the standard focal length in a lens. A lens of shorter length is known as a wide-angle lens and is used usually by landscape photographers. A lens with focal length greater than 50mm is called a telephoto lens and is especially useful to professional photographers in capturing distant images.
There are also cameras with a zoom lens. A zoom lens can offer various focal lengths, so you have a lens capable of many focal lengths. Simple put, when you use a zoom lens you can make your subject bigger or smaller within the frame.
For instance, a wide-angle zoom can cover a range of focal lengths below 50mm, or a telephoto zoom gives you a range of higher order focal lengths. Some superior zoom lenses can take you from wide angle to standard and through to telephoto ranges. The power of the zoom lens is defined by the extent of magnification from a lower focal length to a higher end and is given as 2x, 3x and so on.
Some lens tips:
--A 50mm or 100mm lens is considered adequate for most non-professional hobby users. The professionals usually go for telephoto lenses of 200mm or more. A lens with higher focal length costs a lot more. Most beginners don’t need to invest in a telephoto lens.
--Check if your camera is compatible with the range of lenses that the manufacturer of your model has on offer. Most manufacturers have hundreds of lens options on offer and your requirement for lenses varies as you progress in photography. Your camera has to be compatible with lenses of higher focal length and speed. If you are planning to upgrade your camera by buying another model from the same manufacturer, check for compatibility with older accessories so that you can put to use some of the lenses already available with you and save yourself an additional expense.
2. Depth-of-field preview button
A depth-of-field preview button is a necessity if you want to achieve better focus. It allows you to identify the area that will be in focus in your photograph. This area is referred to as the ‘depth of field’. When you adjust the focus in your camera the preview button is a useful tool that can help you vary the focus and depth of field in different shots.
3. Image sensor resolution
In digital cameras, there is no film in use but this is instead replaced by a device called the image sensor. The image sensor renders colors, is sensitive to light and is the device that captures images in small pixels on its surface.
Image resolution is a measure of the sharpness or level of detail in photographic images. Image resolution is expressed as a number and is measured in mega pixels. High-end professional use cameras have an image sensor resolution of around 12 mega pixels and the most advanced professional models go up to almost 14 mega pixels. At the mid range you have camera models with resolution ranging from 2 - 6 mega pixels. To deliver large format prints of superior quality, you should go for models with resolution greater than 3 mega pixels. At the lower end, you have models of 1 mega pixel or less and the sharpness of the photograph is slightly inferior compared to cameras with higher values of image sensor resolution. Lower pixel models are best suited for small format prints.
4. If you have the facility for Auto-bracketing it can be a very useful tool. Auto-bracketing enables the camera to automatically take 3 exposures or in some cameras 5 exposures of the same shot by varying the Exposure Value (EV) to lighten or darken an image. Each of the images will be slightly differently exposed and this is a great tool to ensure that you capture the moment perfectly. You can bank on at least one being a properly exposed picture. This tool comes in handy especially for professional photographers.
5. If tonal quality of the photograph is your top priority when you choose a camera then it is best that you go for a digital camera. Photographic prints of scenes captured on a digital camera have a level of tonal quality that is far superior to best quality traditional prints.
6. There are sophisticated camera models available today that can capture movement and audio-visual images. If you want to go beyond static images and capture the first steps of a child or activities during family get-togethers, then you should look for a camera with these advanced capabilities. It will create a better experience when you go down memory lane. The Kodak Easyshare LS753 Zoom Digital Camera is one such model that offers audio-visual capability.
-->Features to be Wary Of
Some features or the lack of certain functions can prove to be a stumbling block for a photographer. Be careful when you select your camera system and pick those models where such drawbacks are minimized or not present. Being aware of such drawbacks is important if you want to make a smart choice.
1. If you want to go in for a camera model with a zoom lens, look for an optical zoom, not a digital zoom. The optical zoom provides variable focal length whereas a digital zoom merely increases the magnification in the center portion of the picture. If the camera you choose has both optical and digital zoom, then make sure that you can disable digital zoom.
2. Some cameras are not all that effective in low light conditions and dark places, the flash a not powerful enough. Be sure you don’t select such a model.
3. The shift between exposure-modes should be a simple one-step process. In some models shifting between ‘shutter priority’ and ‘aperture priority’ takes longer since it is a little more complicated, involving more than one step in the process of shifting between modes.
4. In some camera models you run into the problem of dust collecting in the film compartment. Look out for any obvious fine openings that can cause this problem.
5. Slow and noisy Auto Focusing can be irritating. Look for a quieter model.
6. A camera has to have the four key exposure modes: auto, manual, aperture priority and shutter priority. There are models with many more exposure modes but choose such models only if your requirements warrant the confusion that goes along with having a whole host of exposure modes.
-->Based on the Type of Photography Your Want to Attempt
You choice of camera and the functions that you need depend quite a bit on the type of photography that you go in for.
1. If you are into wildlife photography, look for a camera that includes Center-weighted metering.
Center-weighted metering is considered best by wildlife photographers for the flexibility it offers. With the center-weighted meter the attention is on the center of the frame as the meter reads the light reflected from the subject. The sensitivity of the meter is concentrated on the subject located at the center of the picture frame. You can adjust the size of the sensing area to 8mm, 15mm or 20mm based on the size of the subject and its distance from you. Nikon is credited with introduced the world's first Center-Weighted Meter.
2. For landscape photographers, the key features suggested are -a spot meter, a wide angle lens and a memory exposure lock. These three features are considered the perfect tools for landscapes.
The spot meter allows for creative thinking when you compose your shot because the spot meter has a major role to play when you want to meter only a small portion of the scene. The spot meter allows for concentrating the meter's sensitivity on a chosen spot of the scene during exposure. Using a spot meter can be time consuming but its application in executing creative ideas makes the time spent worthwhile. For instance, taking a shot of the sun setting over the sea or capturing the pattern of snow atop a mountain peak can be done with the help of a spot meter. The memory exposure lock is the mechanism with which you can lock the spot meter reading. The camera will use the locked in reading when you click for an exposure.
A wide-angle lens is capable of highlighting objects in the center or foreground. In landscape photography the tendency is to usually have a prominent object like a tree, landmark or person in the foreground to emphasize the scale of the picture against the distant elements in the scenic setting. This feature brings out the depth in the photograph and the wide-angle lens makes this effect possible.
3.Those who indulge in trekking and mountaineering and are looking for functions that is adaptable in contrasting light conditions such as night-time camp fire or early morning at sunrise or at sun-set, should go in for a feature known as ‘multi segment metering’. The multi-segment meter divides the frame into several areas and takes into account the different tones of color in the scene.
4. If you are an inveterate traveler then the camera size and weight should probably be a key consideration. Compact, light cameras are ideal during travel or for trekking.
5. Digital cameras are evolving at a rapid pace in their capabilities. Available to you are cameras that can offer ‘programmed scene modes’ for different types of photography situations and these options are available to you within the same camera model. For instance, the Kodak Easyshare LS753 zoom digital camera has around nineteen automatic scene modes. The mode can be varied depending on the subject and the scene before you, such as - children, snow, beach, backlight, flower or fireworks. This model also has the night mode for night shots and the sport mode that allows you to capture action without the problem of blurring. If your interest in photography is varied but you don’t have the technical knowledge to change the settings for different scenes and subjects, then a digital model with automatic programmed scene modes is your best bet.
6. For beginners still learning the ropes of photography, the criteria for selection should be on features that simplify usage rather than those that complicate the process of learning. For instance, some cameras have a feature called the viewfinder LED. This feature allows the camera to determine the shutter speed that is required for a proper exposure. If you don’t use the right setting, the LED changes from green to yellow to give a warning that the shutter speed is too slow to get a sharp picture. This is a form of auto-assistance that can be a big help to a new photography enthusiast.
To sum up, it is imperative that you explore all your options before you make a final purchase, no matter how time-consuming this process may be. The Internet is a great way to do some pre-purchase information search. Do your Internet research to shortlist options - most major camera manufacturers have websites with extensive product descriptions and price details. You can also do your cost comparisons online at sites like shopping.com. Shopping.com lists 410 products in Point and Shoot Cameras, 153 products in 35mm SLR Cameras, 1,500 products in Digital Cameras besides other camera types and accessories.
Once you have a shortlist, make a visit to the retail outlets. Check out a few alternatives brands and models based on your requirements. Assess them on size, weight, ease-of-use of controls and features. A beginner usually looks for a user-friendly model with significant simplicity in operation. Camera models with manual dials are considered easier to use and quicker to learn and manage by some beginners. But some prefer the panel of buttons. Choose the type that suits you. Ease of use in placement of buttons has to be checked. You have to be comfortable with the ‘layout’ of the various buttons when you handle your camera. The placement of the control layout has to be logical.
And then finally, zero in on the camera that you want. Anyone who wants to experiment, learn and enjoy photography should look for a model that is versatile. For example, your ideal camera could be one with a combination of optical zoom lens of 3x magnification (this is a standard level), a depth of field preview button and an image sensor resolution of at least 3 mega-pixels.
If you make the right choice, your camera system can take you on a long fruitful journey of creativity, learning and fun.
The author, Chris Haslego, is founder of http://www.cameramanualstore.com, the internet's foremost source of camera manuals. With over 4000+ camera manuals available from all major manufacturers.
These parameters are discussed at 2 levels:
-Based on degree of functional use of available features
-Based on the type of photography you want to attempt
-->Based on degree of functional use of available features
A person who is happy with his or her camera model usually responds with the following words of praise.
‘Incredible ease of use’
‘User-friendly controls’
‘Intelligently and thoughtfully designed’
‘Excellent value for money’
‘Light and compact’
These are the kind of terms that you will come across from camera owners who are satisfied with their camera models. These superlatives sum up what people usually look for or could look for at an overall level in their camera. It is a broad evaluation based on design elements, size and affordability.
Before you make a decision to purchase you should explore a little further and study the type of features available to you. Unless you make the attempt to understand the features at your disposal, there is the risk of being stuck with a model that does not suit your particular requirements. Let’s take a look at what features you should look for, as well as the features that you should be wary of when you choose a camera system.
-->Features to Look For
1. The lens is by far the most important device in your camera. The quality of the lens ensures the sharpness of your image. The camera lens is described by length (given in mm), known as the focal length of the lens. 50mm is the standard focal length in a lens. A lens of shorter length is known as a wide-angle lens and is used usually by landscape photographers. A lens with focal length greater than 50mm is called a telephoto lens and is especially useful to professional photographers in capturing distant images.
There are also cameras with a zoom lens. A zoom lens can offer various focal lengths, so you have a lens capable of many focal lengths. Simple put, when you use a zoom lens you can make your subject bigger or smaller within the frame.
For instance, a wide-angle zoom can cover a range of focal lengths below 50mm, or a telephoto zoom gives you a range of higher order focal lengths. Some superior zoom lenses can take you from wide angle to standard and through to telephoto ranges. The power of the zoom lens is defined by the extent of magnification from a lower focal length to a higher end and is given as 2x, 3x and so on.
Some lens tips:
--A 50mm or 100mm lens is considered adequate for most non-professional hobby users. The professionals usually go for telephoto lenses of 200mm or more. A lens with higher focal length costs a lot more. Most beginners don’t need to invest in a telephoto lens.
--Check if your camera is compatible with the range of lenses that the manufacturer of your model has on offer. Most manufacturers have hundreds of lens options on offer and your requirement for lenses varies as you progress in photography. Your camera has to be compatible with lenses of higher focal length and speed. If you are planning to upgrade your camera by buying another model from the same manufacturer, check for compatibility with older accessories so that you can put to use some of the lenses already available with you and save yourself an additional expense.
2. Depth-of-field preview button
A depth-of-field preview button is a necessity if you want to achieve better focus. It allows you to identify the area that will be in focus in your photograph. This area is referred to as the ‘depth of field’. When you adjust the focus in your camera the preview button is a useful tool that can help you vary the focus and depth of field in different shots.
3. Image sensor resolution
In digital cameras, there is no film in use but this is instead replaced by a device called the image sensor. The image sensor renders colors, is sensitive to light and is the device that captures images in small pixels on its surface.
Image resolution is a measure of the sharpness or level of detail in photographic images. Image resolution is expressed as a number and is measured in mega pixels. High-end professional use cameras have an image sensor resolution of around 12 mega pixels and the most advanced professional models go up to almost 14 mega pixels. At the mid range you have camera models with resolution ranging from 2 - 6 mega pixels. To deliver large format prints of superior quality, you should go for models with resolution greater than 3 mega pixels. At the lower end, you have models of 1 mega pixel or less and the sharpness of the photograph is slightly inferior compared to cameras with higher values of image sensor resolution. Lower pixel models are best suited for small format prints.
4. If you have the facility for Auto-bracketing it can be a very useful tool. Auto-bracketing enables the camera to automatically take 3 exposures or in some cameras 5 exposures of the same shot by varying the Exposure Value (EV) to lighten or darken an image. Each of the images will be slightly differently exposed and this is a great tool to ensure that you capture the moment perfectly. You can bank on at least one being a properly exposed picture. This tool comes in handy especially for professional photographers.
5. If tonal quality of the photograph is your top priority when you choose a camera then it is best that you go for a digital camera. Photographic prints of scenes captured on a digital camera have a level of tonal quality that is far superior to best quality traditional prints.
6. There are sophisticated camera models available today that can capture movement and audio-visual images. If you want to go beyond static images and capture the first steps of a child or activities during family get-togethers, then you should look for a camera with these advanced capabilities. It will create a better experience when you go down memory lane. The Kodak Easyshare LS753 Zoom Digital Camera is one such model that offers audio-visual capability.
-->Features to be Wary Of
Some features or the lack of certain functions can prove to be a stumbling block for a photographer. Be careful when you select your camera system and pick those models where such drawbacks are minimized or not present. Being aware of such drawbacks is important if you want to make a smart choice.
1. If you want to go in for a camera model with a zoom lens, look for an optical zoom, not a digital zoom. The optical zoom provides variable focal length whereas a digital zoom merely increases the magnification in the center portion of the picture. If the camera you choose has both optical and digital zoom, then make sure that you can disable digital zoom.
2. Some cameras are not all that effective in low light conditions and dark places, the flash a not powerful enough. Be sure you don’t select such a model.
3. The shift between exposure-modes should be a simple one-step process. In some models shifting between ‘shutter priority’ and ‘aperture priority’ takes longer since it is a little more complicated, involving more than one step in the process of shifting between modes.
4. In some camera models you run into the problem of dust collecting in the film compartment. Look out for any obvious fine openings that can cause this problem.
5. Slow and noisy Auto Focusing can be irritating. Look for a quieter model.
6. A camera has to have the four key exposure modes: auto, manual, aperture priority and shutter priority. There are models with many more exposure modes but choose such models only if your requirements warrant the confusion that goes along with having a whole host of exposure modes.
-->Based on the Type of Photography Your Want to Attempt
You choice of camera and the functions that you need depend quite a bit on the type of photography that you go in for.
1. If you are into wildlife photography, look for a camera that includes Center-weighted metering.
Center-weighted metering is considered best by wildlife photographers for the flexibility it offers. With the center-weighted meter the attention is on the center of the frame as the meter reads the light reflected from the subject. The sensitivity of the meter is concentrated on the subject located at the center of the picture frame. You can adjust the size of the sensing area to 8mm, 15mm or 20mm based on the size of the subject and its distance from you. Nikon is credited with introduced the world's first Center-Weighted Meter.
2. For landscape photographers, the key features suggested are -a spot meter, a wide angle lens and a memory exposure lock. These three features are considered the perfect tools for landscapes.
The spot meter allows for creative thinking when you compose your shot because the spot meter has a major role to play when you want to meter only a small portion of the scene. The spot meter allows for concentrating the meter's sensitivity on a chosen spot of the scene during exposure. Using a spot meter can be time consuming but its application in executing creative ideas makes the time spent worthwhile. For instance, taking a shot of the sun setting over the sea or capturing the pattern of snow atop a mountain peak can be done with the help of a spot meter. The memory exposure lock is the mechanism with which you can lock the spot meter reading. The camera will use the locked in reading when you click for an exposure.
A wide-angle lens is capable of highlighting objects in the center or foreground. In landscape photography the tendency is to usually have a prominent object like a tree, landmark or person in the foreground to emphasize the scale of the picture against the distant elements in the scenic setting. This feature brings out the depth in the photograph and the wide-angle lens makes this effect possible.
3.Those who indulge in trekking and mountaineering and are looking for functions that is adaptable in contrasting light conditions such as night-time camp fire or early morning at sunrise or at sun-set, should go in for a feature known as ‘multi segment metering’. The multi-segment meter divides the frame into several areas and takes into account the different tones of color in the scene.
4. If you are an inveterate traveler then the camera size and weight should probably be a key consideration. Compact, light cameras are ideal during travel or for trekking.
5. Digital cameras are evolving at a rapid pace in their capabilities. Available to you are cameras that can offer ‘programmed scene modes’ for different types of photography situations and these options are available to you within the same camera model. For instance, the Kodak Easyshare LS753 zoom digital camera has around nineteen automatic scene modes. The mode can be varied depending on the subject and the scene before you, such as - children, snow, beach, backlight, flower or fireworks. This model also has the night mode for night shots and the sport mode that allows you to capture action without the problem of blurring. If your interest in photography is varied but you don’t have the technical knowledge to change the settings for different scenes and subjects, then a digital model with automatic programmed scene modes is your best bet.
6. For beginners still learning the ropes of photography, the criteria for selection should be on features that simplify usage rather than those that complicate the process of learning. For instance, some cameras have a feature called the viewfinder LED. This feature allows the camera to determine the shutter speed that is required for a proper exposure. If you don’t use the right setting, the LED changes from green to yellow to give a warning that the shutter speed is too slow to get a sharp picture. This is a form of auto-assistance that can be a big help to a new photography enthusiast.
To sum up, it is imperative that you explore all your options before you make a final purchase, no matter how time-consuming this process may be. The Internet is a great way to do some pre-purchase information search. Do your Internet research to shortlist options - most major camera manufacturers have websites with extensive product descriptions and price details. You can also do your cost comparisons online at sites like shopping.com. Shopping.com lists 410 products in Point and Shoot Cameras, 153 products in 35mm SLR Cameras, 1,500 products in Digital Cameras besides other camera types and accessories.
Once you have a shortlist, make a visit to the retail outlets. Check out a few alternatives brands and models based on your requirements. Assess them on size, weight, ease-of-use of controls and features. A beginner usually looks for a user-friendly model with significant simplicity in operation. Camera models with manual dials are considered easier to use and quicker to learn and manage by some beginners. But some prefer the panel of buttons. Choose the type that suits you. Ease of use in placement of buttons has to be checked. You have to be comfortable with the ‘layout’ of the various buttons when you handle your camera. The placement of the control layout has to be logical.
And then finally, zero in on the camera that you want. Anyone who wants to experiment, learn and enjoy photography should look for a model that is versatile. For example, your ideal camera could be one with a combination of optical zoom lens of 3x magnification (this is a standard level), a depth of field preview button and an image sensor resolution of at least 3 mega-pixels.
If you make the right choice, your camera system can take you on a long fruitful journey of creativity, learning and fun.
The author, Chris Haslego, is founder of http://www.cameramanualstore.com, the internet's foremost source of camera manuals. With over 4000+ camera manuals available from all major manufacturers.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Photography Jobs: Do You Have a Future in Photography?
By Colin Hartness
There is a wide world of photography. It touches each of us in our lives on a daily basis in some form or another. Photography is so much a part of our culture now that we hardly even notice all the places that it exists. When you watch television, look at a magazine or even view a billboard on the highway, this is all because of photography. There are so many ways that photography crosses our lives each day. There are a lot of opportunities for someone looking for photography jobs.
What Photography Jobs are Available?
If you enjoy photography and are thinking of it as a career, there are actually many different directions you can choose from. Obviously, there is professional photography but even in that choice there are many other smaller options that you have as well.
You can become a photographer in a special field such as wedding or family photographer. You can choose to make money taking pictures of things you love such as animals, nature or ships. If you enjoy scuba diving, you can become an underwater photographer. Pretty much anything you can think of, there is room to take and sell pictures of it.
If you love taking pictures and the idea of a career in photography sounds good to you, just how do you begin finding photography jobs?
How Do You Find Photography Jobs?
There are different ways of finding photography jobs, depending on the type of job you are looking for and your experience. You can begin by creating a resume and portfolio of your work. Then you can search on the internet at freelance photography job boards or photography websites and message boards. Get specific into types of photographing you have done and look on the internet for those.
You can go locally and look for internships or local firms or companies that may need photographers. You can get the word out by doing small events such as birthday parties and such. Get your name out as someone who will work these functions. Show friends and family samples of your work and ask them to spread the word. You may even want to participate in a charitable or non-profit event to boost your portfolio.
You can also begin submitting your work to contests and magazines to get yourself known and build your portfolio. Placing or winning in contests and getting published in magazines can help you build clips that you can use for getting bigger and better jobs.
Lastly, you can actually apply to jobs directly. It is best to do this only if you have the proper qualifications for the job. You don’t want to set your goals so high that you get let down but there is nothing wrong with going for what you want. Most importantly, get as involved with what you love as possible. Learn as much as you can about photography and what makes good photography. Subscribe to magazines, read books, look at winners of photography contests.
Looking for information about Photography?
Go to: http://www.asaphotography.com
'ASA Photography' is published by Colin Hartness -
An excellent resource for Photography!
Check out more Photography articles at: http://www.asaphotography.com/archive
There is a wide world of photography. It touches each of us in our lives on a daily basis in some form or another. Photography is so much a part of our culture now that we hardly even notice all the places that it exists. When you watch television, look at a magazine or even view a billboard on the highway, this is all because of photography. There are so many ways that photography crosses our lives each day. There are a lot of opportunities for someone looking for photography jobs.
What Photography Jobs are Available?
If you enjoy photography and are thinking of it as a career, there are actually many different directions you can choose from. Obviously, there is professional photography but even in that choice there are many other smaller options that you have as well.
You can become a photographer in a special field such as wedding or family photographer. You can choose to make money taking pictures of things you love such as animals, nature or ships. If you enjoy scuba diving, you can become an underwater photographer. Pretty much anything you can think of, there is room to take and sell pictures of it.
If you love taking pictures and the idea of a career in photography sounds good to you, just how do you begin finding photography jobs?
How Do You Find Photography Jobs?
There are different ways of finding photography jobs, depending on the type of job you are looking for and your experience. You can begin by creating a resume and portfolio of your work. Then you can search on the internet at freelance photography job boards or photography websites and message boards. Get specific into types of photographing you have done and look on the internet for those.
You can go locally and look for internships or local firms or companies that may need photographers. You can get the word out by doing small events such as birthday parties and such. Get your name out as someone who will work these functions. Show friends and family samples of your work and ask them to spread the word. You may even want to participate in a charitable or non-profit event to boost your portfolio.
You can also begin submitting your work to contests and magazines to get yourself known and build your portfolio. Placing or winning in contests and getting published in magazines can help you build clips that you can use for getting bigger and better jobs.
Lastly, you can actually apply to jobs directly. It is best to do this only if you have the proper qualifications for the job. You don’t want to set your goals so high that you get let down but there is nothing wrong with going for what you want. Most importantly, get as involved with what you love as possible. Learn as much as you can about photography and what makes good photography. Subscribe to magazines, read books, look at winners of photography contests.
Looking for information about Photography?
Go to: http://www.asaphotography.com
'ASA Photography' is published by Colin Hartness -
An excellent resource for Photography!
Check out more Photography articles at: http://www.asaphotography.com/archive
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Photography Tips - Advice For Taking Photos You'll Remember Forever
By Matt Smolsky
Today, we're going to talk about a few ways to simply have more fun with your photography. These simple tips can help you take better photos that you'll be proud to share.
Outdoor photography. Good weather means you can get outdoors and take nature photos, no matter what season it is. Here are a few tips to remember: Expect the unexpected with Mother Nature - wind, rain, sunshine, snow, you know you can't control the weather, so make the best of any conditions you face. Plus, be ready for any type of wildlife to appear at any moment. This will mean you need to be still for extended periods, and move very slowly and quietly. It also means you may need to start at dawn or sunset - when most After all, the animals are on their own schedule, not yours.
Pets. Our furry and feathered companions give us so much joy, and it's a lot of fun to take pictures of them. Try to catch them doing what they do naturally. If they sleep in one certain place, be sure to capture that image so you'll have it to look back on years from now. Also, focus on their eyes for close ups. You'll have the best chance of capturing their emotions and personality.
Sports. If you're not active in sports, you likely know someone who is - whether it's running, cycling, softball, golf, soccer, tennis. These days, it's easy enough to find a sporting event, whether it's in the park down the street or in a stadium across town. When taking sports photos, try to get a basic understanding of the rules of the sport. This will help you to be at the right place at the right time, ready and waiting with your camera. Don't forget to capture warm ups and post-game celebrations - those are a part of sports too!
Birthdays. Birthdays only come once a year, so make the most of them with great photos. Be sure to get in close to capture facial expressions - the look of surprise (or disdain) when they open gifts will make for great memories. Also, try to capture the candle glow. This will mean you need to quickly turn off and on your flash, but it will be well worth the effort when you see how dramatic the effect is.
Reunions. These can be annual events, or they might just happen once every five or 10 years. Either way, there will be opportunities to get pictures of people you haven't seen in quite a long time. Look for candid shots - you'll capture fun expressions and conversations between friends who haven't seen each other for years. Be sure to use your telephoto lens for truly candid shots. Also, take a variety of posed photos. People love to see pictures of the "gang" all gathered together again.
Most all, have fun while taking your photos - that's probably the best tip of all. Stay relaxed and keep an open mind and you'll see shots literally appear before your eyes. Then, just be sure you're camera is ready to take the shot. In an instant, you'll have a wonderful photo that you'll be proud to share with family and friends.
Matt Smolsky writes articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a photo sharing website that lets new members create a free online photo album and is the easiest place to create a digital photo album, calendar, and more.
Today, we're going to talk about a few ways to simply have more fun with your photography. These simple tips can help you take better photos that you'll be proud to share.
Outdoor photography. Good weather means you can get outdoors and take nature photos, no matter what season it is. Here are a few tips to remember: Expect the unexpected with Mother Nature - wind, rain, sunshine, snow, you know you can't control the weather, so make the best of any conditions you face. Plus, be ready for any type of wildlife to appear at any moment. This will mean you need to be still for extended periods, and move very slowly and quietly. It also means you may need to start at dawn or sunset - when most After all, the animals are on their own schedule, not yours.
Pets. Our furry and feathered companions give us so much joy, and it's a lot of fun to take pictures of them. Try to catch them doing what they do naturally. If they sleep in one certain place, be sure to capture that image so you'll have it to look back on years from now. Also, focus on their eyes for close ups. You'll have the best chance of capturing their emotions and personality.
Sports. If you're not active in sports, you likely know someone who is - whether it's running, cycling, softball, golf, soccer, tennis. These days, it's easy enough to find a sporting event, whether it's in the park down the street or in a stadium across town. When taking sports photos, try to get a basic understanding of the rules of the sport. This will help you to be at the right place at the right time, ready and waiting with your camera. Don't forget to capture warm ups and post-game celebrations - those are a part of sports too!
Birthdays. Birthdays only come once a year, so make the most of them with great photos. Be sure to get in close to capture facial expressions - the look of surprise (or disdain) when they open gifts will make for great memories. Also, try to capture the candle glow. This will mean you need to quickly turn off and on your flash, but it will be well worth the effort when you see how dramatic the effect is.
Reunions. These can be annual events, or they might just happen once every five or 10 years. Either way, there will be opportunities to get pictures of people you haven't seen in quite a long time. Look for candid shots - you'll capture fun expressions and conversations between friends who haven't seen each other for years. Be sure to use your telephoto lens for truly candid shots. Also, take a variety of posed photos. People love to see pictures of the "gang" all gathered together again.
Most all, have fun while taking your photos - that's probably the best tip of all. Stay relaxed and keep an open mind and you'll see shots literally appear before your eyes. Then, just be sure you're camera is ready to take the shot. In an instant, you'll have a wonderful photo that you'll be proud to share with family and friends.
Matt Smolsky writes articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a photo sharing website that lets new members create a free online photo album and is the easiest place to create a digital photo album, calendar, and more.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
7 Things You Must Do If You Want To Make That Perfect Camera Shot
By Robin Shortt
Saturate yourself with your subject and the camera will all but take you by the hand. Margaret Bourke-White
These tips should help you relive those moments back where you've said "if only I had a camera." Now you will have it captured on film. These tips should help you to be camera ready.
1. Get as close as you can to the subject or action
Remember, if you're using a instant camera
a lot of them have a minimum shooting
distance. This is usually about two metres.
If your closer than that, your shots will be
out of focus.
Try to take shots with the viewer
focused on the subject. Meaning the closer to the
subject filling the viewer the better.
2. Photos Tell A Story
Photos of an event or activity such as camping with a
group or fishing trip with family and friends tells a
great story for all to relive and enjoy.
3. Decide What It Is You Want and Don't Want in The Picture
Its best to keep the background as uncluttered as you
can. Background clutter will remove the focus from
your subject.
4. Take Surprise Shots
You'll get some great shots if you take pictures when
people least expect them. Just think of the facial
expressions you'll get.
5. Make a Slide Show
Slide shows are great to have later when those involved
in the activity can watch and laugh at themselves and
relive the activity in their minds.
6. Liven Up Posed Shots
Try to avoid taking boring posed shots. Instead of using
"Say Cheese" try have people say Rumplestilskin.
That should help get a real smile. If people see you're going to
take their picture, tell them you will click on four and
then click on three.
That should catch them in a more relaxed state.
7. Camera Hardware Tips
Does your camera have the correct options set up?
Check your lens and make sure its clean. it could have a
finger print on it. That would make it almost impossible
to focus.
Check to see if you have auto focus or manual focus. Test
it to see if it will work as stated in your manual. Make sure
you know how to control it.
if you are using slide film set the ISO button
one spot ahead of the film. An example would be
if your using ISO 64 slide film, set the ISO at 80.
The results will be deeper colour saturation and
more vibrant shades of yellow, red, and orange. This
tip will not work with print film.
Using a digital camera, always make sure the battery
is charged.
For more room on your memory card delete all
pictures you don't want to keep. Your now ready for some
fun and games clicking away with your camera.
For more excellent tips, surf to Kodaks web page at
www.kodak.com
Val and Robin Shortt are experienced campers and own three outdoor websites For more tips like these and to register for their Free newsletter visit: Good Night Camping Equipment
Saturate yourself with your subject and the camera will all but take you by the hand. Margaret Bourke-White
These tips should help you relive those moments back where you've said "if only I had a camera." Now you will have it captured on film. These tips should help you to be camera ready.
1. Get as close as you can to the subject or action
Remember, if you're using a instant camera
a lot of them have a minimum shooting
distance. This is usually about two metres.
If your closer than that, your shots will be
out of focus.
Try to take shots with the viewer
focused on the subject. Meaning the closer to the
subject filling the viewer the better.
2. Photos Tell A Story
Photos of an event or activity such as camping with a
group or fishing trip with family and friends tells a
great story for all to relive and enjoy.
3. Decide What It Is You Want and Don't Want in The Picture
Its best to keep the background as uncluttered as you
can. Background clutter will remove the focus from
your subject.
4. Take Surprise Shots
You'll get some great shots if you take pictures when
people least expect them. Just think of the facial
expressions you'll get.
5. Make a Slide Show
Slide shows are great to have later when those involved
in the activity can watch and laugh at themselves and
relive the activity in their minds.
6. Liven Up Posed Shots
Try to avoid taking boring posed shots. Instead of using
"Say Cheese" try have people say Rumplestilskin.
That should help get a real smile. If people see you're going to
take their picture, tell them you will click on four and
then click on three.
That should catch them in a more relaxed state.
7. Camera Hardware Tips
Does your camera have the correct options set up?
Check your lens and make sure its clean. it could have a
finger print on it. That would make it almost impossible
to focus.
Check to see if you have auto focus or manual focus. Test
it to see if it will work as stated in your manual. Make sure
you know how to control it.
if you are using slide film set the ISO button
one spot ahead of the film. An example would be
if your using ISO 64 slide film, set the ISO at 80.
The results will be deeper colour saturation and
more vibrant shades of yellow, red, and orange. This
tip will not work with print film.
Using a digital camera, always make sure the battery
is charged.
For more room on your memory card delete all
pictures you don't want to keep. Your now ready for some
fun and games clicking away with your camera.
For more excellent tips, surf to Kodaks web page at
www.kodak.com
Val and Robin Shortt are experienced campers and own three outdoor websites For more tips like these and to register for their Free newsletter visit: Good Night Camping Equipment
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
How to Make Perfect Canvas Photos
By Morten Elm
It is easy to make a good canvas photo print. You just upload the photo, pay the price and wait until your new photos on canvas are delivered. But if you want to make the perfect canvas print, you need to know a little about some technical issues. Do not worry though - it is not that complicated.
First of all you have to choose the right format, before you get your photos printed on canvas. The format of your photos has to match the format of the canvas.That means that if you like to buy a 30" x 40" size canvas photo, your photo has to be in the format 3:4 as well (or in other words the width must be 1.25 times the height).
The format varies among cameras. Most compact cameras shoot photos in the 3:4 format while SRL digital cameras shoot in a 2:3 format. Luckily many online photo dealers, who print canvas photos, provide online tools to check it automatically. If the photo format does not match the canvas size, you can crop the photo - if you not do it, it will be done automatically. But by doing it yourself, you have more control. Just remember that it is not a good idea to cut a head or a foot. If you have to do that to fit your photo on the canvas, it is probably better to choose another canvas format.
The next thing you have to think about is the size of the photo.If you print a photo in a standard photo size, the number of pixels does not really matters. But when it comes to printing photos on canvas, they do. To make big canvas photos, you need photos with high resolution (meaning a lot of pixels).If you only got a 2 megapixel camera, you can still get a good small-size canvas photo, but to get one of the bigger ones, you need a newer camera with much more pixels. With an 8 megapixels camera, you can have canvas photos in even the largest sizes.
The technical issues about Format and Size do also apply when printing normal photos. But the subject wraps is a special Canvas Photo issue.It is possible to buy your canvas photos rolled (like a poster), but normally you will have it wrapped around some kind of wooden bars.Basically there are two kinds of wraps: Museum Wraps and Gallery Wraps.
Museum wrap is the way the museums normally have their paintings hanging on the wall. The photo is printed on the canvas with a white area is added around it. When it is then stretched around the bars, the photo itself fills the front, while the sides and the back is just plain white canvas.
The museum wrap is a good solution, if you are planning to frame your canvas photo. And if important parts of the photo are near the edges, it is also a wise choice. It is also normally the wrap to choose, if your canvas photo is a reproduction of an original painting.
The big difference between the museum wrap and the gallery wrap is that in a gallery wrapped canvas, there is not added an extra white area. Instead the border of the canvas photo is wrapped around the edges, so the print extends around the sides of the canvas. The gallery wrap is perfect, if you are planning to hang your canvas photo without a frame. Just remember that it works best, if there is no important part of the photo in the edge part.
That is it. You do not have to learn more technical stuff to get a perfect canvas photo. Just remember to choose the right format (or crop your photo), the right size and the most suitable wrap type.
Morten Elm is a photographer and the editor of the website Photos on Canvas. Here you can read everything you need to know about Canvas Photos before you buy: Technical Stuff, Dealer Reviews, Special Products and how to make Canvas Photo Art.
Visit the website: http://www.Photos-on-Canvas.org to learn more.
It can be complicated to buy canvas photos - but it does not have to be.
It is easy to make a good canvas photo print. You just upload the photo, pay the price and wait until your new photos on canvas are delivered. But if you want to make the perfect canvas print, you need to know a little about some technical issues. Do not worry though - it is not that complicated.
First of all you have to choose the right format, before you get your photos printed on canvas. The format of your photos has to match the format of the canvas.That means that if you like to buy a 30" x 40" size canvas photo, your photo has to be in the format 3:4 as well (or in other words the width must be 1.25 times the height).
The format varies among cameras. Most compact cameras shoot photos in the 3:4 format while SRL digital cameras shoot in a 2:3 format. Luckily many online photo dealers, who print canvas photos, provide online tools to check it automatically. If the photo format does not match the canvas size, you can crop the photo - if you not do it, it will be done automatically. But by doing it yourself, you have more control. Just remember that it is not a good idea to cut a head or a foot. If you have to do that to fit your photo on the canvas, it is probably better to choose another canvas format.
The next thing you have to think about is the size of the photo.If you print a photo in a standard photo size, the number of pixels does not really matters. But when it comes to printing photos on canvas, they do. To make big canvas photos, you need photos with high resolution (meaning a lot of pixels).If you only got a 2 megapixel camera, you can still get a good small-size canvas photo, but to get one of the bigger ones, you need a newer camera with much more pixels. With an 8 megapixels camera, you can have canvas photos in even the largest sizes.
The technical issues about Format and Size do also apply when printing normal photos. But the subject wraps is a special Canvas Photo issue.It is possible to buy your canvas photos rolled (like a poster), but normally you will have it wrapped around some kind of wooden bars.Basically there are two kinds of wraps: Museum Wraps and Gallery Wraps.
Museum wrap is the way the museums normally have their paintings hanging on the wall. The photo is printed on the canvas with a white area is added around it. When it is then stretched around the bars, the photo itself fills the front, while the sides and the back is just plain white canvas.
The museum wrap is a good solution, if you are planning to frame your canvas photo. And if important parts of the photo are near the edges, it is also a wise choice. It is also normally the wrap to choose, if your canvas photo is a reproduction of an original painting.
The big difference between the museum wrap and the gallery wrap is that in a gallery wrapped canvas, there is not added an extra white area. Instead the border of the canvas photo is wrapped around the edges, so the print extends around the sides of the canvas. The gallery wrap is perfect, if you are planning to hang your canvas photo without a frame. Just remember that it works best, if there is no important part of the photo in the edge part.
That is it. You do not have to learn more technical stuff to get a perfect canvas photo. Just remember to choose the right format (or crop your photo), the right size and the most suitable wrap type.
Morten Elm is a photographer and the editor of the website Photos on Canvas. Here you can read everything you need to know about Canvas Photos before you buy: Technical Stuff, Dealer Reviews, Special Products and how to make Canvas Photo Art.
Visit the website: http://www.Photos-on-Canvas.org to learn more.
It can be complicated to buy canvas photos - but it does not have to be.
Monday, July 14, 2008
Practice Your Wildlife Photography - Photograph Birds of Prey
By Paul Miguel
Bird photography can come in many forms, from setting up bird feeders in your garden, to making a purpose-built hide to photograph species in the wild. One of the most popular groups of birds on which to try your skills are birds of prey. Hawks, falcons, eagles and owls are always popular and have particularly special appeal. Visually speaking, many birds of prey are simply stunning, and instantly provide eye-catching images that your average garden bird may not.
Shooting captive birds in controlled settings is an ideal way to gain top class images of a range of raptors in the U.K. These workshops and courses are offered up and down the country, varying in the birds on offer and the surroundings in which they take place. Some workshops are set within falconry centres, where the choice of background and natural perches may not be adequate enough to provide you with stunning pictures. Alternatively you want somewhere as rural as possible, so that you have the opportunity to create images that look natural. Working with captive birds is completely different to being out in the field, where choices of background and lighting can be limited. In controlled conditions, you don't have to worry about disturbing the birds (although respect any instructions from the falconer) - this means that you can move your position to find the best background, and to alter the direction of lighting. Make the most of the situation, and be creative; you've nothing to lose - especially if you are shooting digitally.
Try a couple of different lenses (or focal lengths if using a zoom lens). A telephoto lens of 300mm or more will give a lovely diffused background leaving your subject to stand out clearly. In contrast, a wide angle lens will allow you to include the bird's surroundings which can make a really exciting and interesting image - this will look fantastic if the bird is set in the appropriate habitat. When taking static portraits, pay attention to the jesses (straps around the birds legs) - you don't want to spoil the perfect image by making it obvious that the bird is not a wild one. Ask the falconer to move the bird slightly so that the jesses are hidden by foliage or even turn the bird round if necessary. Use the immediate surroundings as much as possible: if the bird is perched within a tree of burnished autumn colour then pull back to include those complimentary leaves. In terms of background, it's usually best to find the most attractive colour that provides a nice uniform backdrop. That said, with lighter birds such as barn owls, a completely dark background can be a great setting to place the bird against. When it comes to lighting, try to be creative as possible. Cloudy days won't give much option to change things, but if the sun is shining then you have choices. After taking a shot with the light behind you, try moving so that the bird is lit from the side, and if possible, have a go at shooting into the light to create a beautiful halo effect. This can make for a much more striking image. Make the most of the opportunity and don't just go for the standard shots.
Bear in mind that the setting can be very important. To make the images look truly natural, you need to know the habitat that the bird lives in, so that you can shoot in the correct environment. A barn owl sat on a farm gate or a buzzard shot against a valley backdrop are good examples of images that could be taken in the wild. In contrast, you're unlikely to find a little owl sat amongst a patch of heather moor, but this could be the ideal setting for a peregrine falcon.
When it comes to flight photography, it's mainly a case of taking lots of pictures to get a couple of perfect frames - having the facility to shoot at least 3 frames per second will help. Autofocus is advisable when tracking birds, and particularly when they are flying past you in straight line flight. If you are shooting a bird flying head on towards the camera, then it's best to switch to manual focus, pick a point on the ground to focus on, and then fire rapidly as the bird flies into range.
Birds of prey have universal appeal, and are regularly used by many markets and can appear in books and magazines, as well as being used by advertising agencies and for other PR work. 'Cuter' images such as young owls may even appear on postcards and greetings cards. Natural looking images of popular British species can be extremely saleable in the U.K. - it's only your imagination and creativity that limits the possibilities.
Paul Miguel is a professional landscape and wildlife photographer based in West Yorkshire. His work is regularly used by a number of magazines and publishers. He also runs a range of photography workshops. http://www.paulmiguel.com
Bird photography can come in many forms, from setting up bird feeders in your garden, to making a purpose-built hide to photograph species in the wild. One of the most popular groups of birds on which to try your skills are birds of prey. Hawks, falcons, eagles and owls are always popular and have particularly special appeal. Visually speaking, many birds of prey are simply stunning, and instantly provide eye-catching images that your average garden bird may not.
Shooting captive birds in controlled settings is an ideal way to gain top class images of a range of raptors in the U.K. These workshops and courses are offered up and down the country, varying in the birds on offer and the surroundings in which they take place. Some workshops are set within falconry centres, where the choice of background and natural perches may not be adequate enough to provide you with stunning pictures. Alternatively you want somewhere as rural as possible, so that you have the opportunity to create images that look natural. Working with captive birds is completely different to being out in the field, where choices of background and lighting can be limited. In controlled conditions, you don't have to worry about disturbing the birds (although respect any instructions from the falconer) - this means that you can move your position to find the best background, and to alter the direction of lighting. Make the most of the situation, and be creative; you've nothing to lose - especially if you are shooting digitally.
Try a couple of different lenses (or focal lengths if using a zoom lens). A telephoto lens of 300mm or more will give a lovely diffused background leaving your subject to stand out clearly. In contrast, a wide angle lens will allow you to include the bird's surroundings which can make a really exciting and interesting image - this will look fantastic if the bird is set in the appropriate habitat. When taking static portraits, pay attention to the jesses (straps around the birds legs) - you don't want to spoil the perfect image by making it obvious that the bird is not a wild one. Ask the falconer to move the bird slightly so that the jesses are hidden by foliage or even turn the bird round if necessary. Use the immediate surroundings as much as possible: if the bird is perched within a tree of burnished autumn colour then pull back to include those complimentary leaves. In terms of background, it's usually best to find the most attractive colour that provides a nice uniform backdrop. That said, with lighter birds such as barn owls, a completely dark background can be a great setting to place the bird against. When it comes to lighting, try to be creative as possible. Cloudy days won't give much option to change things, but if the sun is shining then you have choices. After taking a shot with the light behind you, try moving so that the bird is lit from the side, and if possible, have a go at shooting into the light to create a beautiful halo effect. This can make for a much more striking image. Make the most of the opportunity and don't just go for the standard shots.
Bear in mind that the setting can be very important. To make the images look truly natural, you need to know the habitat that the bird lives in, so that you can shoot in the correct environment. A barn owl sat on a farm gate or a buzzard shot against a valley backdrop are good examples of images that could be taken in the wild. In contrast, you're unlikely to find a little owl sat amongst a patch of heather moor, but this could be the ideal setting for a peregrine falcon.
When it comes to flight photography, it's mainly a case of taking lots of pictures to get a couple of perfect frames - having the facility to shoot at least 3 frames per second will help. Autofocus is advisable when tracking birds, and particularly when they are flying past you in straight line flight. If you are shooting a bird flying head on towards the camera, then it's best to switch to manual focus, pick a point on the ground to focus on, and then fire rapidly as the bird flies into range.
Birds of prey have universal appeal, and are regularly used by many markets and can appear in books and magazines, as well as being used by advertising agencies and for other PR work. 'Cuter' images such as young owls may even appear on postcards and greetings cards. Natural looking images of popular British species can be extremely saleable in the U.K. - it's only your imagination and creativity that limits the possibilities.
Paul Miguel is a professional landscape and wildlife photographer based in West Yorkshire. His work is regularly used by a number of magazines and publishers. He also runs a range of photography workshops. http://www.paulmiguel.com
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Lighting the Way to Better Digital Photographs
By Stan Pontiere
God said Let there be light and he saw that this was good. Digital photographers saw the light and wondered what is this thing-failed to understand it and proceeded to create millions of miserable photographs. Photography literally means writing with light. Unfortunately, many of today's new photographers fail to use light properly and the result is a total waste of photographic supplies. Everyday, I view hundreds of photographs in newspapers, magazines, on websites and online galleries and for the most part they are nothing more than digital photo trash.
Of course, part of the problem is the lack of proper composition. But, that is not all of the problem-lighting is equally important in creating a great photograph and it seems that very few of today's photographers have learned the characteristics of light to help them create their photographs.
It is ironic that cameras are so smart today that we really only have to worry about 2 things-composition and lighting. But even if a photograph is framed properly, we must use light to enhance our photographs.
The following is just a few tips on writing with light-that is, making our lighting work for us and not against us.
1. Don't forget that your flash may be just as important outside as it is inside. Using flash as a fill-in to create detail in shadow areas is an important technique that professional photographers use all the time. Sometimes, in lieu of using a flash, the pros will often use reflectors to fill in the shadow areas. One thing to remember is not to overpower the subject. The idea is to fill in the deepest shadow areas to give us detail. Often, new photographers will use flash in a manner that creates the look of a second sun. Don't overdo it-use just enough flash to fill in not overpower the subject.
2. When working indoors, sometimes the existing light is sufficient to make a good photograph. If it works then use it. If not, consider using flash off the camera, multiple flash units or flood lights to create your photograph. I understand that multiple electronic flash units can be rather expensive but, floodlights are very inexpensive. You can use floodlights or multiple flash to create natural looking lighting situations, or use the floods as modeling lights to give your subjects almost a 3D effect.
Probably, the single error that bothers me the most is the flash on the camera. In close-ups, it overpowers the subject, burns up all of the detail and leaves the subject looking like a deer caught in your headlights just before the accident. Instead use floods, multiple flash or at least flash off of the camera to create some modeling in your subject.
You don't have to get carried away but for the investment of just a few dollars, you could be lighting the scene like a pro. Fill-in flash, multiple flash or floods or floods and or flash bounced off of a white ceiling or wall will do wonders to improve your photographs.
One final tip, in days of old when painting a portrait, the artist would use the light from a window with northern exposure. It is a pleasant soft light that gives your subject a soft three dimensional look that all of the floodlights or multiple flash units in the world can not even come close to recreating.
Learn to use light properly and along with proper composition you will not be making more photographic trash, you may be creating a work of art.
Stan Pontiere has been an avid photographer since childhood. Having worked for the likes of the Associated Press and The New York Times and an instructor of photography at a college back east, I have enjoyed the transition from film to digital photography.
For more information on digital photography, please visit: http://digitalphoto.net46.net
God said Let there be light and he saw that this was good. Digital photographers saw the light and wondered what is this thing-failed to understand it and proceeded to create millions of miserable photographs. Photography literally means writing with light. Unfortunately, many of today's new photographers fail to use light properly and the result is a total waste of photographic supplies. Everyday, I view hundreds of photographs in newspapers, magazines, on websites and online galleries and for the most part they are nothing more than digital photo trash.
Of course, part of the problem is the lack of proper composition. But, that is not all of the problem-lighting is equally important in creating a great photograph and it seems that very few of today's photographers have learned the characteristics of light to help them create their photographs.
It is ironic that cameras are so smart today that we really only have to worry about 2 things-composition and lighting. But even if a photograph is framed properly, we must use light to enhance our photographs.
The following is just a few tips on writing with light-that is, making our lighting work for us and not against us.
1. Don't forget that your flash may be just as important outside as it is inside. Using flash as a fill-in to create detail in shadow areas is an important technique that professional photographers use all the time. Sometimes, in lieu of using a flash, the pros will often use reflectors to fill in the shadow areas. One thing to remember is not to overpower the subject. The idea is to fill in the deepest shadow areas to give us detail. Often, new photographers will use flash in a manner that creates the look of a second sun. Don't overdo it-use just enough flash to fill in not overpower the subject.
2. When working indoors, sometimes the existing light is sufficient to make a good photograph. If it works then use it. If not, consider using flash off the camera, multiple flash units or flood lights to create your photograph. I understand that multiple electronic flash units can be rather expensive but, floodlights are very inexpensive. You can use floodlights or multiple flash to create natural looking lighting situations, or use the floods as modeling lights to give your subjects almost a 3D effect.
Probably, the single error that bothers me the most is the flash on the camera. In close-ups, it overpowers the subject, burns up all of the detail and leaves the subject looking like a deer caught in your headlights just before the accident. Instead use floods, multiple flash or at least flash off of the camera to create some modeling in your subject.
You don't have to get carried away but for the investment of just a few dollars, you could be lighting the scene like a pro. Fill-in flash, multiple flash or floods or floods and or flash bounced off of a white ceiling or wall will do wonders to improve your photographs.
One final tip, in days of old when painting a portrait, the artist would use the light from a window with northern exposure. It is a pleasant soft light that gives your subject a soft three dimensional look that all of the floodlights or multiple flash units in the world can not even come close to recreating.
Learn to use light properly and along with proper composition you will not be making more photographic trash, you may be creating a work of art.
Stan Pontiere has been an avid photographer since childhood. Having worked for the likes of the Associated Press and The New York Times and an instructor of photography at a college back east, I have enjoyed the transition from film to digital photography.
For more information on digital photography, please visit: http://digitalphoto.net46.net
Friday, July 11, 2008
Photography Tips and Tricks
By Ellaine Murillo
A lot of people would find a digital camera an affordable and useful gadget nowadays. With the new models coming in every now and then and the price getting lower, people can now afford to buy one. Don't you want to take your photos to the next level and amaze your friends and loved ones on how you did it. Well I read a couple of books and would share some tips on how to take better photos.
Take it off center
The usual photos of people that we take always places the subject in the middle of the picture. This is one thing that you should avoid doing. Why don't you place them a little to the right or left and see how it makes a dramatic change to the boring picture. You may also do this with sunsets or when taking pictures of the ocean. Place the horizon off center. Emphasize the sky more or the water more. This is why it does not look like any other photo that you have seen.
Find other angles
Don't be afraid to move. Look for other interesting angles that will emphasize your subject more. Shoot from above or below and you'll notice that your photos will look even better.
Frame your shots
When you're shooting the ever so normal sunset, you may want to place something to frame it to make it different. Example of this is an arching tree or a row of huts. You may also place people in the scene to make it more interesting and to make it different and unique.
I have found a really neat eBook that you may want to check out to learn more about Photography tips and tricks. I have found this book very useful in taking my hobby into the next level. Digital Photography Secrets is the title of the eBook and aimed at beginners who would want to further enhance their skills in Photography.
Another eBook that I also read was Digital Photography Success. You may want to check them out and I'm sure you'll find lots of information, tips and tricks that you'll enjoy and make use of when you're out with your camera and taking those once in a lifetime shot.
A lot of people would find a digital camera an affordable and useful gadget nowadays. With the new models coming in every now and then and the price getting lower, people can now afford to buy one. Don't you want to take your photos to the next level and amaze your friends and loved ones on how you did it. Well I read a couple of books and would share some tips on how to take better photos.
Take it off center
The usual photos of people that we take always places the subject in the middle of the picture. This is one thing that you should avoid doing. Why don't you place them a little to the right or left and see how it makes a dramatic change to the boring picture. You may also do this with sunsets or when taking pictures of the ocean. Place the horizon off center. Emphasize the sky more or the water more. This is why it does not look like any other photo that you have seen.
Find other angles
Don't be afraid to move. Look for other interesting angles that will emphasize your subject more. Shoot from above or below and you'll notice that your photos will look even better.
Frame your shots
When you're shooting the ever so normal sunset, you may want to place something to frame it to make it different. Example of this is an arching tree or a row of huts. You may also place people in the scene to make it more interesting and to make it different and unique.
I have found a really neat eBook that you may want to check out to learn more about Photography tips and tricks. I have found this book very useful in taking my hobby into the next level. Digital Photography Secrets is the title of the eBook and aimed at beginners who would want to further enhance their skills in Photography.
Another eBook that I also read was Digital Photography Success. You may want to check them out and I'm sure you'll find lots of information, tips and tricks that you'll enjoy and make use of when you're out with your camera and taking those once in a lifetime shot.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
The Flash - The Secret Agent For a Perfect Picture
By Stephanie Delhey
Let's say you are about to photograph a birthday party on a sunny afternoon, and there is no way to avoid shadows being cast in the faces of the group.
In photography we often encounter situations where the luminosity is not adequate.
What can you do to guarantee the quality of your photos?
The flash is a device that allows you to correct the luminosity of your pictures. It is the perfect tool to correct any imperfections of the illumination of your photos.
Following are tips where a flash comes in handy:
The most common use for a flash is when taking pictures at night or in a dark room. In these occasions even the human eye perceives a dark object and another source of light is needed.
It is important though to realize that the flash has a maximal distance that will leave the object without light if exceeded.
In many situations we want to photograph a picture in a room where there is natural light, but not enough to have a good picture. In this case increasing the exposure will result in a blurry pic. You can use the normal exposure time, and support it with a flash to make the picture faster, which allows you to work without a tripod!
In the birthday party stated above, you can use a "fill-flash." There's enough light for shooting, but there are areas on the object that are too illuminated, and others that are too dark. The flash will compensate by highlighting the dark areas.
Experiment with your flash and enjoy photography! You can learn how to improve your skills, and how to make money with your hobby by discovering how to start a photography business at http://www.HowToPhotographWeddings.com
Let's say you are about to photograph a birthday party on a sunny afternoon, and there is no way to avoid shadows being cast in the faces of the group.
In photography we often encounter situations where the luminosity is not adequate.
What can you do to guarantee the quality of your photos?
The flash is a device that allows you to correct the luminosity of your pictures. It is the perfect tool to correct any imperfections of the illumination of your photos.
Following are tips where a flash comes in handy:
The most common use for a flash is when taking pictures at night or in a dark room. In these occasions even the human eye perceives a dark object and another source of light is needed.
It is important though to realize that the flash has a maximal distance that will leave the object without light if exceeded.
In many situations we want to photograph a picture in a room where there is natural light, but not enough to have a good picture. In this case increasing the exposure will result in a blurry pic. You can use the normal exposure time, and support it with a flash to make the picture faster, which allows you to work without a tripod!
In the birthday party stated above, you can use a "fill-flash." There's enough light for shooting, but there are areas on the object that are too illuminated, and others that are too dark. The flash will compensate by highlighting the dark areas.
Experiment with your flash and enjoy photography! You can learn how to improve your skills, and how to make money with your hobby by discovering how to start a photography business at http://www.HowToPhotographWeddings.com
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Flowers - The Perfect Subject
By Suzanne Vandegrift
Summer is here and there is no end to the number of beautiful flowers out there ready to be photographed. And what's more wonderful is they will keep blooming all summer and well into the fall. If you're fortunate enough to live in the warmer climates, you could be photographing flowers outdoors well into the winter months, or possibly year 'round. Whether it's a single bud, a single flower, a bouquet, a plant, a bush, or a blossoming tree, flowers are wonderful subjects to photograph. They're not temperamental, they generally stay where you put them (or where they grow), they're a great subject to experiment with, and they come in an array of vibrant colors.
As with any task, being prepared is important. Gather your camera and accessories together and choose the right camera bag for the equipment and the outing. If you plan on going to one location, such as an arboretum or perhaps a rose garden, take along your tripod, lenses, filters and any other accessories you may need and to spend the day making beautiful images. If your camera calls for them, make sure you have back-up batteries and extra memory cards, as well.
The tripod really is an essential tool when photographing flowers. As you get closer to a subject, the slightest movement of the camera will greatly affect the outcome of the picture. It's virtually impossible to hold the camera still enough to take a quality picture without benefit of a tripod. It will be money well spent. Plus, tripods are are a compact piece of equipment that will fit nicely in the right camera bag.
As with any photography, you need a focal point. A lush, pink rose bud just beginning to open on a graceful thorned stem. Or, maybe you've spotted a cheerful plant of daisies with bright yellow centers, but the focal point is the little red ladybug resting on one of the delicate white petals. Look carefully, there's a lot to see. Carry the camera bag that accommodates your extra lenses for macro photography. The one that has the padded U shaped lens cradle for ease in loading.
Lighting can be tricky, at times, depending upon where you're shooting. It's almost always preferable to head out with camera bag in hand in the early morning to shoot your florals for a number of reasons. The dew is still on the flowers, so you can get some very effective macro shots of dew covered blossoms. The sun is not yet high in the sky, so your lighting will be more ideal, casting fewer shadows. If you must shoot in midday, pack a diffuser in your camera bag to soften those harsh effects of the glaring sun.
Give careful consideration to your point of view. Shooting across the top of a field of yellow daffodils results in a breathtaking picture. Or, laying on the ground and taking a picture from beneath a cherry blossom tree in full bloom will result in a picture of a lacy, pink cloud. Look outside the box. Pictures of beautiful bouquets and single stems are still the classics and should never be ignored, but try new, creative pictures. In addition to taking the traditional still lifes, try taking a shot of a single bloom close up with just a portion of it in the picture. Experiment, have fun with it. Remember, flowers are excellent subjects. All you need is a quality camera bag with the right equipment, some leisure time, and beautiful flowers.
Suzanne VanDeGrift has developed this article for M-ROCK.COM, manufacturer of user-friendly camera bags
Summer is here and there is no end to the number of beautiful flowers out there ready to be photographed. And what's more wonderful is they will keep blooming all summer and well into the fall. If you're fortunate enough to live in the warmer climates, you could be photographing flowers outdoors well into the winter months, or possibly year 'round. Whether it's a single bud, a single flower, a bouquet, a plant, a bush, or a blossoming tree, flowers are wonderful subjects to photograph. They're not temperamental, they generally stay where you put them (or where they grow), they're a great subject to experiment with, and they come in an array of vibrant colors.
As with any task, being prepared is important. Gather your camera and accessories together and choose the right camera bag for the equipment and the outing. If you plan on going to one location, such as an arboretum or perhaps a rose garden, take along your tripod, lenses, filters and any other accessories you may need and to spend the day making beautiful images. If your camera calls for them, make sure you have back-up batteries and extra memory cards, as well.
The tripod really is an essential tool when photographing flowers. As you get closer to a subject, the slightest movement of the camera will greatly affect the outcome of the picture. It's virtually impossible to hold the camera still enough to take a quality picture without benefit of a tripod. It will be money well spent. Plus, tripods are are a compact piece of equipment that will fit nicely in the right camera bag.
As with any photography, you need a focal point. A lush, pink rose bud just beginning to open on a graceful thorned stem. Or, maybe you've spotted a cheerful plant of daisies with bright yellow centers, but the focal point is the little red ladybug resting on one of the delicate white petals. Look carefully, there's a lot to see. Carry the camera bag that accommodates your extra lenses for macro photography. The one that has the padded U shaped lens cradle for ease in loading.
Lighting can be tricky, at times, depending upon where you're shooting. It's almost always preferable to head out with camera bag in hand in the early morning to shoot your florals for a number of reasons. The dew is still on the flowers, so you can get some very effective macro shots of dew covered blossoms. The sun is not yet high in the sky, so your lighting will be more ideal, casting fewer shadows. If you must shoot in midday, pack a diffuser in your camera bag to soften those harsh effects of the glaring sun.
Give careful consideration to your point of view. Shooting across the top of a field of yellow daffodils results in a breathtaking picture. Or, laying on the ground and taking a picture from beneath a cherry blossom tree in full bloom will result in a picture of a lacy, pink cloud. Look outside the box. Pictures of beautiful bouquets and single stems are still the classics and should never be ignored, but try new, creative pictures. In addition to taking the traditional still lifes, try taking a shot of a single bloom close up with just a portion of it in the picture. Experiment, have fun with it. Remember, flowers are excellent subjects. All you need is a quality camera bag with the right equipment, some leisure time, and beautiful flowers.
Suzanne VanDeGrift has developed this article for M-ROCK.COM, manufacturer of user-friendly camera bags
Monday, July 7, 2008
How to Make Perfect Canvas Photos
By Morten Elm
It is easy to make a good canvas photo print. You just upload the photo, pay the price and wait until your new photos on canvas are delivered. But if you want to make the perfect canvas print, you need to know a little about some technical issues. Do not worry though - it is not that complicated.
First of all you have to choose the right format, before you get your photos printed on canvas. The format of your photos has to match the format of the canvas.That means that if you like to buy a 30" x 40" size canvas photo, your photo has to be in the format 3:4 as well (or in other words the width must be 1.25 times the height).
The format varies among cameras. Most compact cameras shoot photos in the 3:4 format while SRL digital cameras shoot in a 2:3 format. Luckily many online photo dealers, who print canvas photos, provide online tools to check it automatically. If the photo format does not match the canvas size, you can crop the photo - if you not do it, it will be done automatically. But by doing it yourself, you have more control. Just remember that it is not a good idea to cut a head or a foot. If you have to do that to fit your photo on the canvas, it is probably better to choose another canvas format.
The next thing you have to think about is the size of the photo.If you print a photo in a standard photo size, the number of pixels does not really matters. But when it comes to printing photos on canvas, they do. To make big canvas photos, you need photos with high resolution (meaning a lot of pixels).If you only got a 2 megapixel camera, you can still get a good small-size canvas photo, but to get one of the bigger ones, you need a newer camera with much more pixels. With an 8 megapixels camera, you can have canvas photos in even the largest sizes.
The technical issues about Format and Size do also apply when printing normal photos. But the subject wraps is a special Canvas Photo issue.It is possible to buy your canvas photos rolled (like a poster), but normally you will have it wrapped around some kind of wooden bars.Basically there are two kinds of wraps: Museum Wraps and Gallery Wraps.
Museum wrap is the way the museums normally have their paintings hanging on the wall. The photo is printed on the canvas with a white area is added around it. When it is then stretched around the bars, the photo itself fills the front, while the sides and the back is just plain white canvas.
The museum wrap is a good solution, if you are planning to frame your canvas photo. And if important parts of the photo are near the edges, it is also a wise choice. It is also normally the wrap to choose, if your canvas photo is a reproduction of an original painting.
The big difference between the museum wrap and the gallery wrap is that in a gallery wrapped canvas, there is not added an extra white area. Instead the border of the canvas photo is wrapped around the edges, so the print extends around the sides of the canvas. The gallery wrap is perfect, if you are planning to hang your canvas photo without a frame. Just remember that it works best, if there is no important part of the photo in the edge part.
That is it. You do not have to learn more technical stuff to get a perfect canvas photo. Just remember to choose the right format (or crop your photo), the right size and the most suitable wrap type.
Morten Elm is a photographer and the editor of the website Photos on Canvas. Here you can read everything you need to know about Canvas Photos before you buy: Technical Stuff, Dealer Reviews, Special Products and how to make Canvas Photo Art.
Visit the website: http://www.Photos-on-Canvas.org to learn more.
It can be complicated to buy canvas photos - but it does not have to be.
It is easy to make a good canvas photo print. You just upload the photo, pay the price and wait until your new photos on canvas are delivered. But if you want to make the perfect canvas print, you need to know a little about some technical issues. Do not worry though - it is not that complicated.
First of all you have to choose the right format, before you get your photos printed on canvas. The format of your photos has to match the format of the canvas.That means that if you like to buy a 30" x 40" size canvas photo, your photo has to be in the format 3:4 as well (or in other words the width must be 1.25 times the height).
The format varies among cameras. Most compact cameras shoot photos in the 3:4 format while SRL digital cameras shoot in a 2:3 format. Luckily many online photo dealers, who print canvas photos, provide online tools to check it automatically. If the photo format does not match the canvas size, you can crop the photo - if you not do it, it will be done automatically. But by doing it yourself, you have more control. Just remember that it is not a good idea to cut a head or a foot. If you have to do that to fit your photo on the canvas, it is probably better to choose another canvas format.
The next thing you have to think about is the size of the photo.If you print a photo in a standard photo size, the number of pixels does not really matters. But when it comes to printing photos on canvas, they do. To make big canvas photos, you need photos with high resolution (meaning a lot of pixels).If you only got a 2 megapixel camera, you can still get a good small-size canvas photo, but to get one of the bigger ones, you need a newer camera with much more pixels. With an 8 megapixels camera, you can have canvas photos in even the largest sizes.
The technical issues about Format and Size do also apply when printing normal photos. But the subject wraps is a special Canvas Photo issue.It is possible to buy your canvas photos rolled (like a poster), but normally you will have it wrapped around some kind of wooden bars.Basically there are two kinds of wraps: Museum Wraps and Gallery Wraps.
Museum wrap is the way the museums normally have their paintings hanging on the wall. The photo is printed on the canvas with a white area is added around it. When it is then stretched around the bars, the photo itself fills the front, while the sides and the back is just plain white canvas.
The museum wrap is a good solution, if you are planning to frame your canvas photo. And if important parts of the photo are near the edges, it is also a wise choice. It is also normally the wrap to choose, if your canvas photo is a reproduction of an original painting.
The big difference between the museum wrap and the gallery wrap is that in a gallery wrapped canvas, there is not added an extra white area. Instead the border of the canvas photo is wrapped around the edges, so the print extends around the sides of the canvas. The gallery wrap is perfect, if you are planning to hang your canvas photo without a frame. Just remember that it works best, if there is no important part of the photo in the edge part.
That is it. You do not have to learn more technical stuff to get a perfect canvas photo. Just remember to choose the right format (or crop your photo), the right size and the most suitable wrap type.
Morten Elm is a photographer and the editor of the website Photos on Canvas. Here you can read everything you need to know about Canvas Photos before you buy: Technical Stuff, Dealer Reviews, Special Products and how to make Canvas Photo Art.
Visit the website: http://www.Photos-on-Canvas.org to learn more.
It can be complicated to buy canvas photos - but it does not have to be.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Digital Photography Tips - Landscape Pictures
By Augusto Clarke
I'm guessing that I'm a lot like you in that I want to take good pictures.
Not necessarily because I want to sell them, but just because I want to take better pictures when I go on vacation or when I go to parties or just when I'm going around town. I've done a lot of searching and have found some tips that I thought you may find handy, so I figured I'd share with you in this article.
This is by no means a definitive list, but these are the most pertinent digital photography tips about landscape photography that I've found most useful. Without further ado, here are 8 tips about digital photography of landscapes:
Landscape pictures:
1. The best light is early in the morning, or late afternoon just before sunset. No one ever photographs the Grand Canyon in the middle of the day for a reason. The hour just after sunset is known as the golden hour because of the golden hue of the light. Make sure you turn off the flash so you can capture all the colors. Make sure that you use a tripod to steady the camera during times of low light. A window sill, fence post or wall will do the trick in a pinch. Of course, you can take pictures at any time of day, just make sure that you play around with the effect of the natural light on your photo. So, tip #1 can be summarized as: Choose the right light.
2. Use the software on your camera. Depending on the camera, it may have a special setting just for taking digital pictures of the landscape. It's usually called the landscape shooting mode. This camera mode usually ensures that all items both near and far are focused and color balanced. So, tip #2 can be summarized as: Use your camera's settings properly.
3. If you want to show the magnitude of a scene, use objects that are close to the camera to show the magnitude and scale of the scene. Use something like a fence post or the branch of a tree to juxtapose in your picture.
4. Another great way to show the magnitude of a scene is to feature people in the landscape pictures. This is great for showing the majesty of the scene.
5. Place your subjects off center. Place the people or the objects in your pictures just off center to make for a more interesting shot. Some scenes are just more interesting when there's a person in the picture.
6. Frame the shot using framing techniques to help the photo seem complete.
7. Enhance your photos using the color effects that come with your camera's software. For instance, you can enhance the color of the sky or of the ground using the digital settings on your camera to make the scene look richer.
8. Have fun taking pictures!
Want more? Check out vacation photography for tips on taking better pictures while you're on vacation.
I'm guessing that I'm a lot like you in that I want to take good pictures.
Not necessarily because I want to sell them, but just because I want to take better pictures when I go on vacation or when I go to parties or just when I'm going around town. I've done a lot of searching and have found some tips that I thought you may find handy, so I figured I'd share with you in this article.
This is by no means a definitive list, but these are the most pertinent digital photography tips about landscape photography that I've found most useful. Without further ado, here are 8 tips about digital photography of landscapes:
Landscape pictures:
1. The best light is early in the morning, or late afternoon just before sunset. No one ever photographs the Grand Canyon in the middle of the day for a reason. The hour just after sunset is known as the golden hour because of the golden hue of the light. Make sure you turn off the flash so you can capture all the colors. Make sure that you use a tripod to steady the camera during times of low light. A window sill, fence post or wall will do the trick in a pinch. Of course, you can take pictures at any time of day, just make sure that you play around with the effect of the natural light on your photo. So, tip #1 can be summarized as: Choose the right light.
2. Use the software on your camera. Depending on the camera, it may have a special setting just for taking digital pictures of the landscape. It's usually called the landscape shooting mode. This camera mode usually ensures that all items both near and far are focused and color balanced. So, tip #2 can be summarized as: Use your camera's settings properly.
3. If you want to show the magnitude of a scene, use objects that are close to the camera to show the magnitude and scale of the scene. Use something like a fence post or the branch of a tree to juxtapose in your picture.
4. Another great way to show the magnitude of a scene is to feature people in the landscape pictures. This is great for showing the majesty of the scene.
5. Place your subjects off center. Place the people or the objects in your pictures just off center to make for a more interesting shot. Some scenes are just more interesting when there's a person in the picture.
6. Frame the shot using framing techniques to help the photo seem complete.
7. Enhance your photos using the color effects that come with your camera's software. For instance, you can enhance the color of the sky or of the ground using the digital settings on your camera to make the scene look richer.
8. Have fun taking pictures!
Want more? Check out vacation photography for tips on taking better pictures while you're on vacation.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Best Black and White Photos
By Stephen Yeardley
Black and white photography is often treated as the inferior alternative to color - after all, why limit yourself to monotone shades when you can use the full spectrum of colors? But this is a very limited way of thinking, because black and white photos can often be even more striking than the color equivalent. Follow these five essential tips to make the most of your black & white photography.
1. Shape and Form
By removing color from your scene, you are doing away with one of most potentially distracting elements in your photo. This will focus the viewer's attention on the shapes and forms within a scene. When composing your shot, look beyond the colors in the scene and instead arrange your scene's elements in a way that is visually enticing.
2. Contrast
Without differences in color to separate the objects in your scene, contrast becomes even more important, because it will stop objects merging into one another. If you are photographing a light subject, try to frame it on a dark background, and vice versa. Increasing the variety of tones and shades in your scene also helps to add depth.
3. Pattern In color photography, the colors themselves can often distract attention away from any patterns within a scene. However, by shooting in black and white you can direct the viewer's attention back to the pattern, making it appear much more prominent.
4. Texture Whenever we look at a photo, we immediately begin to build up a mental picture of the scene in our mind. One of the main ways our brain does this is by using the color information available in the photo. Of course if we shoot in black and white, this color information isn't available, so the brain pays more attention to other elements, such as texture. This makes the texture appear more detailed and engaging.
5. Lighting Lighting affects all of the above elements, and so it is absolutely essential to a good black and white photograph. When framing your scene, think about how the lighting affects the shapes, contrast, patterns and textures in your scene, and try to choose a shooting angle that emphasizes the most important ones. Side lighting usually gives excellent results because it adds depth to your three-dimensional objects with highlights and shadows, and enhances the textures, patterns and surface details within the scene.
I use a Samsung GX-10 for my black and white photography which I bought from http://www.DigicamsDirect.com
Black and white photography is often treated as the inferior alternative to color - after all, why limit yourself to monotone shades when you can use the full spectrum of colors? But this is a very limited way of thinking, because black and white photos can often be even more striking than the color equivalent. Follow these five essential tips to make the most of your black & white photography.
1. Shape and Form
By removing color from your scene, you are doing away with one of most potentially distracting elements in your photo. This will focus the viewer's attention on the shapes and forms within a scene. When composing your shot, look beyond the colors in the scene and instead arrange your scene's elements in a way that is visually enticing.
2. Contrast
Without differences in color to separate the objects in your scene, contrast becomes even more important, because it will stop objects merging into one another. If you are photographing a light subject, try to frame it on a dark background, and vice versa. Increasing the variety of tones and shades in your scene also helps to add depth.
3. Pattern In color photography, the colors themselves can often distract attention away from any patterns within a scene. However, by shooting in black and white you can direct the viewer's attention back to the pattern, making it appear much more prominent.
4. Texture Whenever we look at a photo, we immediately begin to build up a mental picture of the scene in our mind. One of the main ways our brain does this is by using the color information available in the photo. Of course if we shoot in black and white, this color information isn't available, so the brain pays more attention to other elements, such as texture. This makes the texture appear more detailed and engaging.
5. Lighting Lighting affects all of the above elements, and so it is absolutely essential to a good black and white photograph. When framing your scene, think about how the lighting affects the shapes, contrast, patterns and textures in your scene, and try to choose a shooting angle that emphasizes the most important ones. Side lighting usually gives excellent results because it adds depth to your three-dimensional objects with highlights and shadows, and enhances the textures, patterns and surface details within the scene.
I use a Samsung GX-10 for my black and white photography which I bought from http://www.DigicamsDirect.com
Friday, July 4, 2008
The Fastest Way to Learn Digital Photography - If You're a Beginner
By Amy Renfrey
While that new digital camera may seem a bit confusing and complicated, you have made a wise investment, but you will only reap the benefits of owning one of these technological wonders if you learn how to use it correctly.
Rule #1: Read the Manual!
Rule number one for anyone wanting to learn and understand digital photography a bit better is to read the manual that came with your camera. Yes, there really is something worth reading in that thick book! Digital cameras come with a staggering variety of tools and settings to help amateur and professional photographers alike take amazing photographs. Of course, those are only useful to you if you know how to use them!
Your camera probably has various timers, macro settings, lighting and flash adjustments, and it may have a video camera feature as well as pre-installed settings for landscape, portrait, active or long distance imagery. Take the time to explore and experiment with these features as they will allow a photographer great flexibility, efficiency and creativity.
Rule #2: Always Keep Your Battery Charged!
Another critical pointer to a new digital photographer has to do with the camera equipment - if you can invest in a spare battery, do so! There is nothing more frustrating to creativity and exploration than equipment failure due to a dead battery. Be sure to charge batteries prior to setting out on a photo experiment, and also read the manual for energy saving tips such as shutting off the LCD display. Using a video camera feature, and video play back, may also drain the battery on a digital camera.
Rule #3: Get Out and Play!
The next step to learning digital photography is to get out and experiment with your camera. If you all ready have a good understanding of photography basics such as composition and lighting, you may already have some subjects in mind. But if you are not an experienced photographer a digital camera is a great tool to learn the process. Memory cards allow endless experimentation; the owner simply deletes the "duds" from the memory without spending a dime on film processing and prints. Digital cameras offer many settings, including auto focus and auto flash, but a new user should disable these features to see what the results are without the automatic settings.
Rule #4: Learn a Little Bit about Lighting
New digital photographers should begin their digital camera education with an examination of lighting. All digital cameras allow their settings to be adjusted, and the amount of light on any given subject will make a dramatic difference. There are cloudy day settings, red eye flash settings, macro photography settings and all of these will change the way an image appears.
If a digital photographer is prepared with an amply charged battery and a spare if possible, then they should take the time to examine their photographic results immediately on the LCD screen. You also want to be certain you have plenty of space on your memory card. Many DSLR digital cameras do not come with a memory card, so be sure to pick one up when you purchase the camera! Experimentation is much easier with digital photography, and the instant view of the resultant photographs makes the learning process much faster.
Amy Renfrey is the author of two major successful ebooks "Digital Photography Success" and "Advanced Digital Photography". She is a photographer and also teaches digital photography. Her educational ebooks takes the most complex photography terms and turns them into easy to understand language so that anyone, at any level of photography, can easily move to a semi-professional level of skill in just a very short time. She's photographed many things from famous musicians (Drummers for Prince and Anastasia) to weddings and portraits of babies. Amy also teaches photography online to her students which can be found at http://www.DigitalPhotographySuccess.com
While that new digital camera may seem a bit confusing and complicated, you have made a wise investment, but you will only reap the benefits of owning one of these technological wonders if you learn how to use it correctly.
Rule #1: Read the Manual!
Rule number one for anyone wanting to learn and understand digital photography a bit better is to read the manual that came with your camera. Yes, there really is something worth reading in that thick book! Digital cameras come with a staggering variety of tools and settings to help amateur and professional photographers alike take amazing photographs. Of course, those are only useful to you if you know how to use them!
Your camera probably has various timers, macro settings, lighting and flash adjustments, and it may have a video camera feature as well as pre-installed settings for landscape, portrait, active or long distance imagery. Take the time to explore and experiment with these features as they will allow a photographer great flexibility, efficiency and creativity.
Rule #2: Always Keep Your Battery Charged!
Another critical pointer to a new digital photographer has to do with the camera equipment - if you can invest in a spare battery, do so! There is nothing more frustrating to creativity and exploration than equipment failure due to a dead battery. Be sure to charge batteries prior to setting out on a photo experiment, and also read the manual for energy saving tips such as shutting off the LCD display. Using a video camera feature, and video play back, may also drain the battery on a digital camera.
Rule #3: Get Out and Play!
The next step to learning digital photography is to get out and experiment with your camera. If you all ready have a good understanding of photography basics such as composition and lighting, you may already have some subjects in mind. But if you are not an experienced photographer a digital camera is a great tool to learn the process. Memory cards allow endless experimentation; the owner simply deletes the "duds" from the memory without spending a dime on film processing and prints. Digital cameras offer many settings, including auto focus and auto flash, but a new user should disable these features to see what the results are without the automatic settings.
Rule #4: Learn a Little Bit about Lighting
New digital photographers should begin their digital camera education with an examination of lighting. All digital cameras allow their settings to be adjusted, and the amount of light on any given subject will make a dramatic difference. There are cloudy day settings, red eye flash settings, macro photography settings and all of these will change the way an image appears.
If a digital photographer is prepared with an amply charged battery and a spare if possible, then they should take the time to examine their photographic results immediately on the LCD screen. You also want to be certain you have plenty of space on your memory card. Many DSLR digital cameras do not come with a memory card, so be sure to pick one up when you purchase the camera! Experimentation is much easier with digital photography, and the instant view of the resultant photographs makes the learning process much faster.
Amy Renfrey is the author of two major successful ebooks "Digital Photography Success" and "Advanced Digital Photography". She is a photographer and also teaches digital photography. Her educational ebooks takes the most complex photography terms and turns them into easy to understand language so that anyone, at any level of photography, can easily move to a semi-professional level of skill in just a very short time. She's photographed many things from famous musicians (Drummers for Prince and Anastasia) to weddings and portraits of babies. Amy also teaches photography online to her students which can be found at http://www.DigitalPhotographySuccess.com
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Poolside & Beach Pictures - 3 Tips For Making A Splash This Summer
By Matt Smolsky
Summer offers a lot of opportunity for fun and frolic in the sun, and you'll want to capture as many memories as possible.
The best way is with a digital camera. While digital video has its place in preserving family memories, there's nothing like having an album full of photos to look at while you talk and share with the people you love.
It's easy getting great photos this summer - photos that you'll cherish forever and true family heirlooms. Now, you might say - "they're just photos of lunch by the pool," but these are the moments that create your best memories.
With just a little attention to detail, you can improve the quality of your photos. When you share them, whether it's online via email or in a professionally printed and bound photo album, you'll be prouder than ever. You'll turn a snapshot into a wonderful keepsake.
Tip #1. Take a lot of photos. You'll be shooting outdoors which means changing light and weather conditions, sometimes within a matter of moments. Even water clarity can change, depending where you're swimming. So if you see a great scene of people playing in the water, snap away. Some of those pictures may turn out, some may not, but you all but guarantee getting a great shot if you take a lot of pictures.
Tip #2. Look for photos in shallow water or on the edge of the beach. This is where some of the fun occurs. People tossing a water toy back and forth, sandcastle building, body surfing and general playing the water. If small children are present, this is where you're like to get your best shots.
Make sure you have stable footing as there can be holes, slipper rocks or shifting sands. Also, if you have an underwater camera, an interesting shot might be if your camera lens is halfway in the water and halfway out. Or, if you are taking a group picture, have the group stand in ankle or knee deep water.
Tip #3. Take time with the exposure. Outdoor light can cause a lot of problems - the brights can be very bright and the darks very dark. This can make it tough for your camera's light meter to get a proper reading. If you can, bracket the exposure one or two f-stops on either side of what your light meter recommends. Also, if your camera has spot metering, you can use this to your advantage when trying to photograph a shady area. (The other areas will be overexposed, however).
Of course, you should try to put your subject in the best light possible. If it's a candid shot, try to position yourself in the best light relative to your subject. This will greatly depend on the position of the sun.
Taking photos at the beach or pool can be filled with challenges, but the rewards will last a lifetime. With a little attention to detail, you can get pictures you'll be proud to share!
Matt Smolsky writes articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a photo sharing website that offers a free online photo album to new members and is the easiest place to create a digital photo album, calendar, and more.
Summer offers a lot of opportunity for fun and frolic in the sun, and you'll want to capture as many memories as possible.
The best way is with a digital camera. While digital video has its place in preserving family memories, there's nothing like having an album full of photos to look at while you talk and share with the people you love.
It's easy getting great photos this summer - photos that you'll cherish forever and true family heirlooms. Now, you might say - "they're just photos of lunch by the pool," but these are the moments that create your best memories.
With just a little attention to detail, you can improve the quality of your photos. When you share them, whether it's online via email or in a professionally printed and bound photo album, you'll be prouder than ever. You'll turn a snapshot into a wonderful keepsake.
Tip #1. Take a lot of photos. You'll be shooting outdoors which means changing light and weather conditions, sometimes within a matter of moments. Even water clarity can change, depending where you're swimming. So if you see a great scene of people playing in the water, snap away. Some of those pictures may turn out, some may not, but you all but guarantee getting a great shot if you take a lot of pictures.
Tip #2. Look for photos in shallow water or on the edge of the beach. This is where some of the fun occurs. People tossing a water toy back and forth, sandcastle building, body surfing and general playing the water. If small children are present, this is where you're like to get your best shots.
Make sure you have stable footing as there can be holes, slipper rocks or shifting sands. Also, if you have an underwater camera, an interesting shot might be if your camera lens is halfway in the water and halfway out. Or, if you are taking a group picture, have the group stand in ankle or knee deep water.
Tip #3. Take time with the exposure. Outdoor light can cause a lot of problems - the brights can be very bright and the darks very dark. This can make it tough for your camera's light meter to get a proper reading. If you can, bracket the exposure one or two f-stops on either side of what your light meter recommends. Also, if your camera has spot metering, you can use this to your advantage when trying to photograph a shady area. (The other areas will be overexposed, however).
Of course, you should try to put your subject in the best light possible. If it's a candid shot, try to position yourself in the best light relative to your subject. This will greatly depend on the position of the sun.
Taking photos at the beach or pool can be filled with challenges, but the rewards will last a lifetime. With a little attention to detail, you can get pictures you'll be proud to share!
Matt Smolsky writes articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a photo sharing website that offers a free online photo album to new members and is the easiest place to create a digital photo album, calendar, and more.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Summer of Photo Fun - 3 Great Tips For Perfect Summer Photos
By Matt Smolsky
The fun and hectic days of summer are upon us, and that means taking lots of photos at backyard barbecues, days at the beach, camping trips and other fun outdoor activities.
But just because it's bright and sunny out doesn't mean every photo is guaranteed to turn out right.
In fact, summer photography comes with challenges - a glaring sun, blinding reflections from the water, just to name a few.
Here are three great tips for taking great photos this summer.
Tip #1: Use a fill flash. We've all done it. You find the perfect backdrop and you position your subject in front of it, delighted you're going to end up with the perfect photo. Then, when you go to review your shot, you see that your subject is dark because your camera lens was facing towards the sun.
How do you solve this problem? Well, you can try repositioning your subject, though oftentimes this isn't possible without completely spoiling the shot you intended to get. Or, you could come back at another time, but this is most often not possible.
There are easy ways to get light onto your subject. One can be achieved by using a fill flash.
To fill in the subject with your camera flash, you'll need to be able to set the f-stop on your camera. First, take a reading with the light meter built into your camera. Be sure that your shutter speed is slower than, or equal to, your flash's sync speed. Then, go ahead and set your flash so it exposes at an f-stop 1 or 2 stops larger than the f-stop you set on the camera (you are opening up the lens, so more light gets in).
Tip #2: Use reflectors. Fill flash isn't the only way to bounce light onto the front of your subject. You can also buy reflectors at a photographic store, or you can make them yourselves using white cardboard. You'll have to experiment with how much light to reflect back onto your subject, so be ready to take a couple of different exposures on the same settings.
Tip #3: Handling bright reflections off the water. First, try a polarizing filter. It could reduce or completely eliminate the problem. It will also deepen the colors of the sky, trees, grass, etc. You will need to experiment a bit with your polarizing filter, but the results will be well worth it. The filter reduces overall light reaching the camera, so you will need to adjust your f stop accordingly.
Also, glaring water surfaces may require taking a little more time with metering. For example, if you're trying to capture sea foam on the waves as they break and the water is dark, try reducing the exposure by one stop. You can do this by reducing the f stop or reducing the shutter speed. If your subject is darker than the surrounding water (or other glaring surface) you can take your meter reading close up on your darker subject, and then step back to take the picture, overriding your camera's automatic setting with the reading you got close up.
Put these three tips to use, and you'll see a lot more of your summer time photos turn out the way you want. Of course, experimentation is the key. Don't be afraid to try a lot of different exposures. You'll be glad you did when you get the one shot everyone wants.
Matt Smolsky writes articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a photo sharing website that lets new members create a free online photo album and is the easiest place to create a digital photo album, calendar, and more. http://www.hoorray.com
The fun and hectic days of summer are upon us, and that means taking lots of photos at backyard barbecues, days at the beach, camping trips and other fun outdoor activities.
But just because it's bright and sunny out doesn't mean every photo is guaranteed to turn out right.
In fact, summer photography comes with challenges - a glaring sun, blinding reflections from the water, just to name a few.
Here are three great tips for taking great photos this summer.
Tip #1: Use a fill flash. We've all done it. You find the perfect backdrop and you position your subject in front of it, delighted you're going to end up with the perfect photo. Then, when you go to review your shot, you see that your subject is dark because your camera lens was facing towards the sun.
How do you solve this problem? Well, you can try repositioning your subject, though oftentimes this isn't possible without completely spoiling the shot you intended to get. Or, you could come back at another time, but this is most often not possible.
There are easy ways to get light onto your subject. One can be achieved by using a fill flash.
To fill in the subject with your camera flash, you'll need to be able to set the f-stop on your camera. First, take a reading with the light meter built into your camera. Be sure that your shutter speed is slower than, or equal to, your flash's sync speed. Then, go ahead and set your flash so it exposes at an f-stop 1 or 2 stops larger than the f-stop you set on the camera (you are opening up the lens, so more light gets in).
Tip #2: Use reflectors. Fill flash isn't the only way to bounce light onto the front of your subject. You can also buy reflectors at a photographic store, or you can make them yourselves using white cardboard. You'll have to experiment with how much light to reflect back onto your subject, so be ready to take a couple of different exposures on the same settings.
Tip #3: Handling bright reflections off the water. First, try a polarizing filter. It could reduce or completely eliminate the problem. It will also deepen the colors of the sky, trees, grass, etc. You will need to experiment a bit with your polarizing filter, but the results will be well worth it. The filter reduces overall light reaching the camera, so you will need to adjust your f stop accordingly.
Also, glaring water surfaces may require taking a little more time with metering. For example, if you're trying to capture sea foam on the waves as they break and the water is dark, try reducing the exposure by one stop. You can do this by reducing the f stop or reducing the shutter speed. If your subject is darker than the surrounding water (or other glaring surface) you can take your meter reading close up on your darker subject, and then step back to take the picture, overriding your camera's automatic setting with the reading you got close up.
Put these three tips to use, and you'll see a lot more of your summer time photos turn out the way you want. Of course, experimentation is the key. Don't be afraid to try a lot of different exposures. You'll be glad you did when you get the one shot everyone wants.
Matt Smolsky writes articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a photo sharing website that lets new members create a free online photo album and is the easiest place to create a digital photo album, calendar, and more. http://www.hoorray.com
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Better Photo Tips - New Photo Insights
By Tedric Garrison
We all do it at one point or another. We like taking photos of nature (for example), so we take more and more photos of nature, and tend over look other areas of photography. Then one day, someone calls up and says, "Hey, we were talking the other day about you doing photography. I think I have some extra work for you, are you interested?"
"Sure!" You say enthusiastically, then almost as an after thought you ask, "What are we shooting?"
The person you are talking with has decided to go for the World Speed Record in a wheel chair. Now, I've taken photos of people and I've taken photos at more traditional sporting events, like Football, Basketball, and Soccer; but how do you gear up for something you have NEVER shot before? The first photo tip to remember is to always have business cards with you. Because even though he said "the other day" you realize it has been almost two years since you had this discussion, but you did give him a business card and obviously he kept it.
Back to the problem at hand, this photo shoot is prior to the actual event. The photos he wants you to take are to be used as promotion shots. The customer suggests a local park for the photo shoot location. The first photo obstacle is the location itself, yes there are some nice points but, this park has office buildings on one side and a huge school on the other side. Always be aware of the background in your photo shoot.
Admittedly this was a new situation for me, but the first dozen shots or so just didn't feel right to me. Then my mind starting thinking about how I take photos of little kids at weddings; I get down on their level. Yes, this was a full size adult, but the photos didn't feel right until I was at the same level he was. If the subject is looking down and you photograph looking down at him, there is no interaction. Always take your photos with interaction in mind.
This particular person designed this particular wheel chair specifically for racing. Being totally naïve regarding handicap racing, I had to reply on his expertise to get the right photo. Regardless of the type of event you are shooting, remember this photo tip: use other people's knowledge to make your photos look more professional. In wheelchair racing for example; the front wheels control all the steering. If I had only shot photos with his hands resting on the back wheels, anybody who did know the event would know I (the photographer) didn't know what I was doing.
Even though we started this photo shoot early in the morning, the higher the sun got, the more dramatic the shadows got. When the subject was in an actual racing stance and he was leaning forward in his chair it did create some really deep shadows. I experimented with a reflector, a flash and some photos with both. Even though it was a beautiful day, quote "not a cloud in the sky"; I had to be prepared to control the existing light.
To review the lessons learned when photographing something totally out of your everyday experience, this is what I had to learn, or relearn to get the job done:
A) Always have photo business cards available, you never know when they can lead to new and exciting photo opportunities. (Even two years later.)
B) Always be aware of the background! That sounds obvious, but you want to make sure the subject is the main center of attention in your photo, not a reflection off an office window.
C) Always take photos with interaction in mind. Originally I was going to say at the same eye level, but during this photo shoot I also got down and took pictures at ground level as well.
D) Always use other people's expertise to make your photos look good. This is especially true when shooting things you have never shot before. The subject is more likely to like your work if he or she knows they actually helped with the input.
E) Always be prepared to control the light in your photo to meet the needs of the shoot. A bright sunny day is not always the best time to take a great photograph. Remember this: the brighter the light, the harsher the shadows.
A final thought, as a photographer, your most valuable tool is your mind and the ability to think and see creatively. Do not get so wrapped up in one specialty area of photography that you forget to apply those same photo tips to other areas as well. Life is a journey, not a destination. Likewise, who and what we are as photographers is what we learn from the different types of things we allow ourselves to photograph.
Award winning writer / photographer Tedric Garrison has over 30 years experience in photography. As a Graphic Art Major, he has a unique perspective on the Elements of Design and how those elements relate to all aspects of photography. His photo eBook "Your Creative Edge" ( http://www.betterphototips.com/creativeedge.htm) proves that creativity CAN be taught.
Today, he shares his wealth of knowledge with the world, at: http://www.betterphototips.com
We all do it at one point or another. We like taking photos of nature (for example), so we take more and more photos of nature, and tend over look other areas of photography. Then one day, someone calls up and says, "Hey, we were talking the other day about you doing photography. I think I have some extra work for you, are you interested?"
"Sure!" You say enthusiastically, then almost as an after thought you ask, "What are we shooting?"
The person you are talking with has decided to go for the World Speed Record in a wheel chair. Now, I've taken photos of people and I've taken photos at more traditional sporting events, like Football, Basketball, and Soccer; but how do you gear up for something you have NEVER shot before? The first photo tip to remember is to always have business cards with you. Because even though he said "the other day" you realize it has been almost two years since you had this discussion, but you did give him a business card and obviously he kept it.
Back to the problem at hand, this photo shoot is prior to the actual event. The photos he wants you to take are to be used as promotion shots. The customer suggests a local park for the photo shoot location. The first photo obstacle is the location itself, yes there are some nice points but, this park has office buildings on one side and a huge school on the other side. Always be aware of the background in your photo shoot.
Admittedly this was a new situation for me, but the first dozen shots or so just didn't feel right to me. Then my mind starting thinking about how I take photos of little kids at weddings; I get down on their level. Yes, this was a full size adult, but the photos didn't feel right until I was at the same level he was. If the subject is looking down and you photograph looking down at him, there is no interaction. Always take your photos with interaction in mind.
This particular person designed this particular wheel chair specifically for racing. Being totally naïve regarding handicap racing, I had to reply on his expertise to get the right photo. Regardless of the type of event you are shooting, remember this photo tip: use other people's knowledge to make your photos look more professional. In wheelchair racing for example; the front wheels control all the steering. If I had only shot photos with his hands resting on the back wheels, anybody who did know the event would know I (the photographer) didn't know what I was doing.
Even though we started this photo shoot early in the morning, the higher the sun got, the more dramatic the shadows got. When the subject was in an actual racing stance and he was leaning forward in his chair it did create some really deep shadows. I experimented with a reflector, a flash and some photos with both. Even though it was a beautiful day, quote "not a cloud in the sky"; I had to be prepared to control the existing light.
To review the lessons learned when photographing something totally out of your everyday experience, this is what I had to learn, or relearn to get the job done:
A) Always have photo business cards available, you never know when they can lead to new and exciting photo opportunities. (Even two years later.)
B) Always be aware of the background! That sounds obvious, but you want to make sure the subject is the main center of attention in your photo, not a reflection off an office window.
C) Always take photos with interaction in mind. Originally I was going to say at the same eye level, but during this photo shoot I also got down and took pictures at ground level as well.
D) Always use other people's expertise to make your photos look good. This is especially true when shooting things you have never shot before. The subject is more likely to like your work if he or she knows they actually helped with the input.
E) Always be prepared to control the light in your photo to meet the needs of the shoot. A bright sunny day is not always the best time to take a great photograph. Remember this: the brighter the light, the harsher the shadows.
A final thought, as a photographer, your most valuable tool is your mind and the ability to think and see creatively. Do not get so wrapped up in one specialty area of photography that you forget to apply those same photo tips to other areas as well. Life is a journey, not a destination. Likewise, who and what we are as photographers is what we learn from the different types of things we allow ourselves to photograph.
Award winning writer / photographer Tedric Garrison has over 30 years experience in photography. As a Graphic Art Major, he has a unique perspective on the Elements of Design and how those elements relate to all aspects of photography. His photo eBook "Your Creative Edge" ( http://www.betterphototips.com/creativeedge.htm) proves that creativity CAN be taught.
Today, he shares his wealth of knowledge with the world, at: http://www.betterphototips.com
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